Dad's Dart (or one just like it) Restoration

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After a three day marathon of wet sanding, washing, seam sealer, and masking that ended well after midnight on Friday night, Mike got me out of bed before dawn on Saturday to paint the body.

First step was the sealer which is just SPI Regular Build Primer thinned about 50%.
 

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The base coat is ProSpray solvent based, in a 1999 Ford code BH used on Lincoln Continentals. It was a perfect match to the sample of original paint I had from behind the ashtray bezel.

Mike did all the work. My job was to spin the car and take the pictures.
 

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The clear coat is Southern Polyurethanes Euro Clear. 4 wet coats!
 

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Went over to L&M Auto Body this morning to unmask the car and pull it out of the booth. It already has a deep shine. Can't wait to see it color sanded and polished.
 

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What a great thread. Subscribed...I love the attention to detail and that this is just like your old mans. Keep up the great work. Now the fun part of putting it back together can begin!
 
I'm getting behind in my postings. About a month ago we got some more panels painted. This batch was the doors, front fenders, and the tops of the convertible interior side panels.

The only big pieces remaining are the hood, deck lid, and front valance. These are sanded to 400 grit. A quick going over with 600 and they'll be ready to spray.
 

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This 65 Dart belongs to Mike, the owner of L&M Auto Body. I met Mike when he drove this car into a meeting of South Bay Mopars at Bob's Big Boy in Torrance. It's perfectly straight with a deep shine. Once I saw that finish, I knew I wanted Mike to paint my car.

When I was sick and tired of sanding on my car and needed motivation, there it was. Can't wait to see both cars side by side.
 

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I took another batch of big parts over to National Sand Blasting. The small stuff I can do in my Harbor Freight blast cabinet, but the big stuff goes to National. The black parts are already painted. The cast iron parts will get painted this weekend.
 

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I got another batch of parts painted this weekend. These were all cast iron parts. I think this is the first time I've used a rattle can on this project. I hope you guys still respect me.

The top coat is VHT engine enamel (Nu-Cast™ Cast Iron). But since it's all in the prep, most of these parts were media blasted first. I didn't want to risk damaging the seals on the calipers, so I wiped those down with acetone to remove the paint that was applied during the rebuild by Calipers Online. The steering gearbox is a rebuilt unit from RockAuto.com. They covered it with the cheapest black paint imaginable. A paint brush and some gasoline got most of that off, followed by some acetone in the spray gun and some clean paper towels. The lower ball joints, pitman and idler arms were masked really well and media blasted. The brake drums and rotors had some kind of rust preventative stuff on them. Acetone first, and then into the blast cabinet.

Once all the parts were prepped, I primed them with SPI polyurethane primer. I mixed some black and white primer to get a gray that was close to the VHT color. This made the coverage pretty easy and I was able to finish all these parts with two cans of the VHT.
 

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Also painted the front valance, bottom of the hood and deck lid, as well as some assorted smalls.
 

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Spent Saturday morning at L&M getting the last of the panels painted. The bottoms of the hood and deck lid were painted last time. Sanded the top sides to 600 grit and masked off the back sides. Here they are ready for paint.
View attachment Prepped.jpg.jpg

Everything got a coat of sealer.
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To get a matte finish on the kick panels and shifter console Mike used hardner in the base coat and no clear coat.
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Here are the panels after base coat.
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View attachment Trunk Base Coat.jpg.jpg

Here is a shot of Mike spraying the clear. Nice and wet!
View attachment Applying Clear.jpg.jpg

And here is the finished product.
View attachment After Trunk and Hood.jpg.jpg
View attachment After Hood Front.jpg.jpg
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That looks good! Your finish is awesome. Wait till you get all the fenders, doors, hood, trunk and valenca panel!! Can't wait to see it coming together.
 
I've been making progress on color sanding and polishing. Here is a shot of a section of the quarter panel after sanding with 1000, 1500, buffing and polishing.
 

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I've been anxious to get going on assembly, but first I had to get all the fasteners restored. The first batch was all the black stuff.

Each baggie was emptied into my basket. If the threads looked really dirty or damages I chased them with a tap or die. Then I put them into the cabinet and blasted them with Aluminum Oxide. I held each bolt or nut in a pair of pliers to protect the gloves.

After blasting, I photograph them on a piece of paper to record what goes where. Here is a sample picture of just one baggie. I took approximately 100 pictures just like this.
View attachment 20140922_221230.jpg

Since the plater had a minimum charge for anything up to 180 lbs, I cleaned and plated all the bolts from a couple of parts cars, plus bolts I've collected over the years.

That was going way to slow, so I tried a different approach. For all the spares and parts car bolts I put the bolts into my cement mixer with a mix of sand, water, and degreaser and ran the mixer for 5 hours.

Here's what they looked like before.
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Here's how they came out of the mixer.
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Here's what they look like after rinsing.
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Since the process was kind of rough on them, I chased all the threads with tap and die and then put them in the sandblaster. Since they were pretty clean from the mixer, it was way quicker to blast them. All together I had about 4 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket.

I took them to AllBlack in Santa Fe Springs, CA. They offer at least three different black plating processes. The cheapest was black oxide. The most expensive was manganese phosphate. I chose the middle option which was zinc phosphate. He quoted me a minimum charge of $90, but since they were so clean he discounted the job to $75. I dropped them off before noon and they were ready in 4 hours.

Here's the finished product. They've been soaked in oil which supposedly soaks into the zinc phosphate and protects them.
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I can't say enough good things about AllBlack. Not only can they do the plating, but they can do the prep as well. They have special automated blasting cabinets with tumblers as well as giant vibratory tumblers. I asked the guy how much it would have cost to have them to all the prep. He guessed it would have cost around $40 which would have been such a bargain given the time I spent.
 
After the black stuff, I still had to do all the bright stuff. I didn't have nearly as much of that and I didn't go nuts on the spares like I did with the black.

I took them to a company called Westcoast Metal Finishing in Los Angeles. Since some of the parts were larger and needed to be racked, the cost was higher. Also the cost goes up depending on desired thickness. Their minimum batch charge is $45. I had two batches. I had the big parts rack plated to a thickness of .0005" which is the thickest option. The small stuff I had barrel plated to .0004" to avoid problems with the threads. Total cost for the job was $150. Turn around was 2 days.
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I know some of this stuff should have different finishes, but I saved a lot of time and money by just getting it all done with the same finish.
 
I've been doing a ton of color sanding and for the most part it's gone well. But there were a few booboos to address.

I sanded through on the dash and glove box door.
The buffer went through on the convertible interior panel.
The inside of both doors got rashed when I leaned them against a wall with no cushion.
And the front fender had issues in the original paint.

Got them all resprayed.
View attachment 20141023_213755.jpg
 
Got the engine mounted to the K-member and the transmission attached.

The motor mounts listed on RockAuto.com, eBay, and elsewhere on this site (Anchor 2266, DEA A2266, Westar EM2266) did not work for me. I can't see how they could work.

The funny thing is that mount is recommended for Darts with 273 V8. But Valiants and Barracudas call for a different mount (Anchor 2338, DEA A2338, Westar EM2338). I picked up a set of the DEA A2338 mounts and things went much better.

Now I can really start moving forward with assembly.
 

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Got the engine mounted to the K-member and the transmission attached.

The motor mounts listed on RockAuto.com, eBay, and elsewhere on this site (Anchor 2266, DEA A2266, Westar EM2266) did not work for me. I can't see how they could work.

The funny thing is that mount is recommended for Darts with 273 V8. But Valiants and Barracudas call for a different mount (Anchor 2338, DEA A2338, Westar EM2338). I picked up a set of the DEA A2338 mounts and things went much better.

Now I can really start moving forward with assembly.

You've come along way John. Excellent work! If I were closer I would stop by!
 
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