What's an 833 o/d from a truck worth?

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YY1

YY1

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After 5 pages searching classifieds, couldn't find one.

It's got a slant bell and clutch.

Complete trans with rods and shifter.

Shifter feels like it needs rebuilt. Clutch feels REALLY light.

Spins.

Haven't driven it yet.

It's long tail, but has an adapter that places the shifter closer to an A body location.

There's one on CL for $600 BARE, but That's ridiculous.

What's a realistic price?
 
For you or to sell? They are probably the least desirable as they are long shaft and most are 26 spline output behind a /6.
 
I paid $200 for an f-body short tail with shifter and linkage a few years ago. Found it on CL. By the time you find the short tail extension housing and mainshaft and shift rods a truck trans will cost a lot more to make work in an A-body. I have a truck o/d but bought the car trans to put in my dart.
 
I've purchased the long tail truck versions for $150-$250. I wouldn't pay more than that for one.
 
300-450 in today's market if it is in good condition.
 
Actually, the truck transmission will bolt right into a B body and work. It has two shifter mount locations and one is right where the B body needs to be. I would say the 300-450 is most reasonable, especially with everybody wanting to make their ride as economical as possible. I have one shifter, linkage and all with less than 60K original miles on it I plan to put behind my Hemi in the rat truck and it would take every bit of 450 to move it.
 
They work great in the B/E bodies, and can be adapted easily to the 1st gen hemi's for hot rod projects, which is why I bought mine. But there's no way I'd pay $400 for one. I've bought several, and I haven't paid more than $250 for any of them. And they're all in good enough shape to install without an overhaul.

I only paid $500 for my A body 833 (non OD), and it came with most of the linkage to install it as well.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Actually, the truck transmission will bolt right into a B body and work. It has two shifter mount locations and one is right where the B body needs to be. I would say the 300-450 is most reasonable, especially with everybody wanting to make their ride as economical as possible. I have one shifter, linkage and all with less than 60K original miles on it I plan to put behind my Hemi in the rat truck and it would take every bit of 450 to move it.
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I agree..I always thought[and practiced] that the truck 833/Od were the same as b-body or an e-body since it has 2 mounting pads,splines arent any different since its still an 833 trans,and there were a few adapters made to put them in an a-body,this I have seen so I know it to be true...truck 833/od are the same as a car 833/od...but an a-body od[and reg 833] had a shorter tailshaft for the shifterpad location exclusively for the a-body but same internals and same case....so I was always under the belief that a trk 833 and 833od with the 2 different mounting pads were the same as b and e-body cars, and with most trks I have encountered have a offset plate that mounts on shifter pad for fitament in the trks...and 250-350 is where I place value at with shifter and linkage etc.......
 
Actually, the tailshaft splines are not the same as a non-833 OD, they're the same as a 904. The truck OD's have a different OD ratio (.71) than the car OD's (.73). The shifter can be used on most mopars with some tweaking, but the linkage is useless for everything but certain B body's. Same with the truck shifter plate. And the shifters will all be of the slip-in style.

The truck transmissions do have the same mounting pads as the B/E bodies, and you can adapt the long tailshaft transmissions into an A body with a little work, there's an article on bigblockdart that shows how to do it- http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/abconv.shtml

Anyway, even if they're complete with shifter and everything you can only actually use about half of that stuff. And the truck versions are pretty common, as I already mentioned I've bought several for less than $200. I'd pay more for an A/F body OD, but they don't seem as common, and you can actually use all of the linkage attached to them.

Here's an article that covers all the info and differences on the 4 speeds, and spends a lot of time explaining how the OD transmissions are set up.

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/ODA833fourspeed1.htm
 
The van version was a short shaft like the A bodies. I have had a bunch of these and they are worth whatever you can get someone to pay. usually in the $100 range. They don't hold up well with any type of horsepower in front of them because of the way the torque is routed through the secondary shaft they have a tendency to ream the case out and explode when everything binds up. The input bearing retainer is larger on them which requires the use of the bellhousing that was made for them. I personally don't like the gear spread on these and I probably wouldn't use one unless it was a 6 banger or something that came with it.
 
hemichuck said:
The van version was a short shaft like the A bodies. I have had a bunch of these and they are worth whatever you can get someone to pay. usually in the $100 range.
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That's incorrect.
Van's and pick up trucks are both long tailshaft transmissions.
The passenger car "F" body's are short tailshaft.

My aluminum case, OD trans, in the picture, is out of a van.
 

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Thanks guys.

I kinda figured somewhere in the $250-$300 area.

It looks like you could use the shifter and rods, and just put the 4 speed hump in the correct place for that vs the "correct" place for the car. That would put the shifter about two inches forward of the factory B body rear position, or about half the distance of the adapter specs on the bigblockdart site.

Bet most folks wouldn't notice. Probably not good for a A body with bench or console, though.

Thanks for the info about different o/d ratios. Never heard that.
A .71 would actually be more economical.

Seems like as long as you have the yoke from the drive shaft (or a 904 yoke- of which I have several)...in business.

The one in my other donor truck is behind a 69 10:1 440, and is still together.
I don't find the gear spread bad at all.
 
If I remember right it is a funky Trans yoke. 26 spline with the OD of a 30 spline?? Check to be sure.
 
hemichuck said:
The van version was a short shaft like the A bodies.
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Not true as noted above

hemichuck said:
They don't hold up well with any type of horsepower in front of them because of the way the torque is routed through the secondary shaft .
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This is true of all OD's regardless of what they were in. In "3rd" gear which is the "old" 4th gear they are as strong as a 4 speed, so heavy loads, trailers, etc. or hard on the throttle.

OD was designed for just what it was designed for........cruising at speed
 
Yall can argue strength all you want. Here's the facts. They put these transmissions in trucks and vans. Those were not light vehicles. Most cars will be much lighter than the vans and trucks these transmissions came out of, so the strength factor effectively goes up. While it is true that the counter shaft turns in high gear, the failures of the counter shaft and or case is fairly uncommon. Like anything else, as long as it has oil in it and it's full, it'll probably be ok. It IS an 833 derivative, after all.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yall can argue strength all you want. Here's the facts. They put these transmissions in trucks and vans. Those were not light vehicles. Most cars will be much lighter than the vans and trucks these transmissions came out of, so the strength factor effectively goes up. While it is true that the counter shaft turns in high gear, the failures of the counter shaft and or case is fairly uncommon. Like anything else, as long as it has oil in it and it's full, it'll probably be ok. It IS an 833 derivative, after all.
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Totally agree.

It's true, the 833 OD's are not as strong as an 833. But for most of us, an 833 is practically bombproof on the street. The 833 OD's can wear out the case around the counter shaft, but this isn't a short term problem, its a long term issue. And, if you have the transmission out of the car and you're worried about the case, you can have the case machined to accept steel bushings for the counter shaft. I forget where I saw the article, but its a pretty easy fix. If you're REALLY worried about it, the 833 OD internals will swap right into a regular 833 cast iron case. You can't mix and match, but you can take everything and swap it into cast iron case with a 308 bearing.

But I've heard of more than one 833OD living just fine behind a 440. The one I know about in particular was in a B body that saw a decent amount of 1/4 mile time. It was eventually replaced, but it held up for years like that. In an A body that sees mostly street use and runs street tires at the track, you're unlikely to have any issues.
 
But I've heard of more than one 833OD living just fine behind a 440. The one I know about in particular was in a B body that saw a decent amount of 1/4 mile time. It was eventually replaced, but it held up for years like that. In an A body that sees mostly street use and runs street tires at the track, you're unlikely to have any issues.[/QUOTE]

I'm sure we have all heard of instances where people did things and it all worked out fine, My statement was based on the experiences that I have had over the last 40 years of doing the things that people don't recommend. Back in the late 70's when they first came out we all thought "this is great" Mopar finally gives us an overdrive we can stick in our old car and make it a little easier to deal with so we couldn't wait for someone to wipe out a feather duster so we could scoop up the trans and stick it in our cars. Didn't take long to figure out its not a great swap. Like I said, the gear spread was not exactly great for performance driving and whenever it was installed in front of a stout smallblock the life expectancy was pretty short compared to a standard 833. Even though the internals are essentially the same the problem comes where the torque in 4th gear is routed through the countershaft and the case where the countershaft rides (especially the aluminum case) was not designed to handle that power and they will oval out. I would encourage anyone here to follow your dream and build anything you like but I can certainly say that with years of experience at doing these same things that the results will be less than satisfying. I've probably owned a couple of hundred of the 833OD units and probably installed at least 50 in cars and trucks and none have lasted very long nor were the owners happy with the way they drove. To date Mopar has never built any 5 or 6 speed that is easy to retrofit into a muscle car. They are great for cars that you are trying to get maximum mileage out of (which is what Chrysler built them for) but when removed from that realm they don't really shine.
My Son just loves to prove me wrong by contradicting everything I have learned over the last 4 decades and I always end up saying the same thing to him that I will say here. "go ahead and do it and let me know how it works out for ya"
 
My theory:

For power- Dive like a 3 speed with a 4 speed shift pattern.

For economy- Use O/D like an O/D and not as a power gear.

Anyone trying to powershift 500+ HP into O/D 4th is probably gonna run into trouble eventually.
 
YY1 said:
My theory:

For power- Dive like a 3 speed with a 4 speed shift pattern.

For economy- Use O/D like an O/D and not as a power gear.

Anyone trying to powershift 500+ HP into O/D 4th is probably gonna run into trouble eventually.
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No sense beating this dead horse, you got it figured out.
Some folks will still jam it in OD, blow it up, and ***** about "poor design" though.
 
we just installed a van od in a 69 gtx with a mild 440.now it gets almot 15 mpg and that's getting on it a couple times.

yoke splines are the same as a 727 or regular 833.

truck and van shifter pads are raised up to high to use in a car,and i think linkage is useless as well.

i've heard and seen all about the case weakness too.we'll see just how long we get out of it....we put it in for mileage so hopefully it will last a long time.

we picked this one up for 100$ and it looked new inside....
 
Some O/D 833s had the cast iron case. The one that came in my '75 Dart Sport slant six parts car was.
My opinion is that if you are going to try to be Ronnie Sox and drive it mercilessly with a lot of power in front of it, nothing will live for very long, not even a hemi 4 speed.
If you drove the car REASONABLY, a 440 with a 4 speed O/D and a 7 1/4'' rear would live if you keep the lube in good shape.
If you drive like an animal, nothing will last with severe abuse.
Geez guys, keep it in perspective........
As for value on the one you are looking at, $600 is way too much especially bare. More like $100 if it looks good inside.
 
You can still use steel bushings in the aluminum cases to reinforce the countershaft. Or switch the entire thing into a cast iron case. Do either one of those things, and the 833 OD will last just fine.

No, its not as good as some of the alternatives, but for $200 and maybe an extra $100 to bush an aluminum case or buy a cast iron case you're at a fraction of the cost of any OD alternative. And, unlike any of the 5 or 6 speed options currently available, they bolt right it. No, the gear ratio's aren't perfect, but its not a "race" transmission. That Passon 5 speed would sure be nice.
 
Bought a '76 Aspen wagon w/ a Super 6 and an OD iron case 833 for $300 here about 15 months ago. Sold the Super Six & disc stuff, my buddy kept the motor, and I got $235 for the twisted hulk. Kept the trans, hump, pedals, wiring , reverse warning light and linkage...
Last Spring found an '83-ish D-100 ex-Washington State forest service truck with the aluminum OD behind a 318. Pulled the whole thing and went out-the-door for about $250. Sold the gearbox for $200 with the Hurst shifter stuff to a buddy. Kept the bell housing and the new clutch, bearing and machined flywheel.
I have a couple 340's, an M-body console car steering column and an '85 AHB Plymouth Gran Fury that is really nice. Time to have some good old "Who gives a sh@t, let's make a Mopar" fun.
 
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