318 Non-Magnum [Valvetrain question]

-

SS Lancer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2013
Messages
4,513
Reaction score
3,674
Location
North Carolina
Hello, should rocker arm shafts be fully seated in heads to be installed correctly ??? If I tighten down fully where shafts are bottomed out in heads it tries to stall engine , never had smallblock Mopar so not sure what I doing wrong etc was trying to silence some rocker arms on stock set-up but confused - thanks Chris
 
I think you'd better tell us "the full story," here.

You can not run a Mopar with the shafts loose on the head saddles!!!!
 
Are you talking about individual rocker arm type Magnum style or shaft mount type on LA engines.
Sorry didn't notice the non-magnum in the subject.
 
Give us some info here. Complete engine specs. What machine work? Heads milled? Block decked? Head gasket type? Cam? Pictures are a plus. Any and all info you can give.
 
More than likely by you loosening the shafts the plunger in the lifters have pumped up. If you let it run rough after tightening for a little it should smooth out. Repeat this step until they are tight.
Unless this is a new build and the parts combination is in question.
 
I think you'd better tell us "the full story," here.

You can not run a Mopar with the shafts loose on the head saddles!!!!
I have a 3.9 Dodge Dakota and it has a rack just like a 318 I bolted the shafts down and the motor starts to stall , I have never used this type but I bwould think the rounds rack should mount firmly in heads correct , I also have some rocker arm noise of course, thanks Chris
 
OK but how about some details...........how did you get to this point? What changed that it's not running, or not running correctly? Have you changed some parts? Swapped heads? What EXACTLY give us the story.

And yes. Rocker shafts should be bolted down and the hold down bolts torqued. I'm not familiar with V6's so cannot comment on torque values. What size are the bolts.

WE ARE NOT readers of crystal balls. In fact I don't HAVE a crystal ball.
 
If the head and/or block has been milled, shims need to be used to restore stock rocker arm geometry. Some might say that installing a shorter push rod will take care of the problem. The issue is that there are oil grooves in the rocker shaft that will not engage the rocker arm properly thus creating an oiling problem for the rocker arm. If shims are a no-no, then a shorter installed valve spring height and a shorter pushrod will be required.

Torque value on the bolt should be 30 ft/lbs.
 
I would bolt the rocker gear on, make sure all the pushrods are seated right, torque it all down put it together and bust it off. When I did the cylinder head job on my Ranger, it did about the same thing when I put it back together. Ran like hell for a few minutes and slowly cleared up. When pressure is remover from the lifters, they are allowed to extend all the way. I bet they will be fine once you let it run for a bit. Make sure you have the rocker shafts on correctly. There is only one way.
 
-
Back
Top