The Best Kept Secret in Moparland

-
e50095

e50095

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Messages
216
Reaction score
47
Talking to an old timer one day a few years ago, he started talking about the best kept secrets for guys with Mopars. I can only recall a portion of what he said, but it got me thinking.....what else is out there that folks don't know about.

Here's my short list:

1. The best kept secret of course is no longer a secret, the use of FMJ spindles for disk upgrade. It wasn't that long ago that folks were stuck on A-spindles only, and you readily found guys to argue that bumpsteer stuff. By now though, it seems Mopar Actions test put an end to that debate, although you will find cats on this site that will still argue it and not let it go...

2. I've not had the opportunity to try this, but I've now heard from many sources that the 66-67 B-body 8 3/4 housing is a straight bolt in to A-bodies, with no modifications necessary at all. That could save some folks a lot of money.

3. The 67-72 sway bar inner mounting brackets easily got smashed because they were low hanging. For those needing them, I understand the 66-70 B-body brackets are identical, and likely more readily avaiable as I dont believe anyone is reproducing them yet.

That's it for my list...

Whats on your list brothers?....share your experience and teach us all something we didn't know......:prayer:

Ken near York, PA
 
I've done both #1 (in the early 1990's and it worked GREAT) and #2, (in the past few years, but the car is not on the road yet)

I''l add that many fasteners, connectors, lights, and hard to find items like steering column spacers....are the same all the way into the 80's and even the 90's.

I bought an 87 5th Ave parts car for the brakes, and I can't get rid of it because it keeps yielding more and more useable parts that I'd have to pay a LOT more than scrap value to get.
 
1. The best kept secret of course is no longer a secret, the use of FMJ spindles for disk upgrade. It wasn't that long ago that folks were stuck on A-spindles only, and you readily found guys to argue that bumpsteer stuff. By now though, it seems Mopar Actions test put an end to that debate, although you will find cats on this site that will still argue it and not let it go...
Click to expand...


thats still a big debate when brought up..lol
 
Here's one for ya.

I needed a new steering column when I converted from power steering to manual steering in my '73 Swinger. I had heard about extending the stock power steering column by means of breaking the plastic safety collar that allows the column to collapse during an accident. But this didn't seem safe since it may allow the inner shaft to fall out of the outer shaft.

I just happened to have an extra 1972 B-body column laying around. I measured it and the difference between it and a stock A-body manual column was mere fractions of an inch (if my memory serves me right). So I swapped the brackets where the steering shaft meets the firewall and where the steering shaft is supported under the dash (both of which were simple swaps) and the unit bolted right in. Like it was made for it!

I did end up inadvertently collapsing the column when I was forcing it into place, so I can't verify if it is exactly the right length, but I know there is not risk of the inner shaft falling out of the outer shaft, and the unit will still collapse if I happen to get in a bad accident.

Saved me about $150 on buying one of those PS to MS couplers that I see sold online. Hopefully this can help somebody else.

-Mike
 
The 66-67 B body rear is wider but will bolt in.I took the Ford 9'' out of my buddy's 68 Torino and directly bolted it into my 66 Charger only needed a different u-joint.
 
I understand that although it bolts in, the housing (and by extension the track) is a tad wider than the A-body, so the axles would not be the same length. That swap is perfect for someone needing to upgrade to the big bolt pattern though. The width difference is so minimal it shouldn't cause tire clearance issues, and best of all the spring perches don't have to be moved.
 
e50095 said:
I understand that although it bolts in, the housing (and by extension the track) is a tad wider than the A-body, so the axles would not be the same length. That swap is perfect for someone needing to upgrade to the big bolt pattern though. The width difference is so minimal it shouldn't cause tire clearance issues, and best of all the spring perches don't have to be moved.
Click to expand...

If I remember right, I measured for this years ago and it seemed like it would work for Dusters and later Darts/Dart Sports. But it didn't seem like there would be enough tire clearance on 67-69 Barracudas.
 
All A Body leaf spring interchange, even all the way down to 63, 64, 65 ,66.. cool
 
The B-body rearend in a A-body is not a direct bolt in. You have to move the spring perches in a little. I have done this swap several times on 67-69 Barracuda's and 73-76 Duster's. I have seen a few where they tried it without moving the perches, but the springs had a slight twist and I can see where it will break, sooner or later. It is a simple to swap the perches.
 
e50095 said:
I understand that although it bolts in, the housing (and by extension the track) is a tad wider than the A-body, so the axles would not be the same length. That swap is perfect for someone needing to upgrade to the big bolt pattern though. The width difference is so minimal it shouldn't cause tire clearance issues, and best of all the spring perches don't have to be moved.
Click to expand...
Did this on my 72 dart. Moved the perches a half inch on either side and also had to get custom backspaced wheels do to being slightly wider. but well worth it compared to the high cost of A body 8 3/4.
 
B-onefan said:
The B-body rearend in a A-body is not a direct bolt in. You have to move the spring perches in a little. I have done this swap several times on 67-69 Barracuda's and 73-76 Duster's. I have seen a few where they tried it without moving the perches, but the springs had a slight twist and I can see where it will break, sooner or later. It is a simple to swap the perches.
Click to expand...

My experience also. I swapped a rear for a guy who swore it was an A body rear but was a bear to force the pins into the perches. Looking back, I'm sure that it was an early B body rear. I think there is 1 inch difference perch to perch from early B to A body. I had a custom 8 3/4 rear done, by Moser, for the 67 Barracuda and to keep the same track for an A body with the LBP, the rear housing is shorter than the standard A body SBP 8 3/4. The distance from the bearing to the wheel flange is longer on the LBP axle. This way the wheel offsets are the standard LBP, and keep the wheels centered in the wheel wells.
 
A B block with hi-po manifolds will drop right into an early A without power steering. depending on how hung over the K-member guy was that day, there is either 1/8 clearance between steering shaft or it just hits. since you are making motor mounts or elephant ears (best) anyway you can fudge it over to the passenger side 1/2 inch and you are in. Hammer the pinch weld in the tunnel and check steering before final motor mount position.

Hurst Pro-matic 2 will bolt under the stock 64-65 console to convert to modern trans and looks stock if you switch balls.

5X100 is NOT 5 on 4 contrary to what Ebay tells you.
 
67-68 Dart 2dr sedans use the exact same doors as 67-69 Valiant 2drs.
Nice to know if you have a relatively hard to find Dart sedan.
 
e50095 said:
Talking to an old timer one day a few years ago, he started talking about the best kept secrets for guys with Mopars. I can only recall a portion of what he said, but it got me thinking.....what else is out there that folks don't know about.

Here's my short list:

1. The best kept secret of course is no longer a secret, the use of FMJ spindles for disk upgrade. It wasn't that long ago that folks were stuck on A-spindles only, and you readily found guys to argue that bumpsteer stuff. By now though, it seems Mopar Actions test put an end to that debate, although you will find cats on this site that will still argue it and not let it go...
Click to expand...

Mopr Action did no such test I am aware of...the contrary, Rick Ehrenberg was and is foursquare AGAINST using the FMJ spindles.
 
My bad brother.....it was Mopar muscle magazine..heres the link to the article. I fall on the FMJ side of this based on the countless positive experiences of those that have done it on this site, and that I've heard very little from anyone that says they had a bad experience. I do recognize your right to disagree, and further recognize the FMJ may not be for everyone and every application. I love you regardless....

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...pp_0503_swapping_a_and_b_disc_brake_spindles/
 
Here is mine, the little plastic "F" shaped fitting that connects the windshield washer bottle to the nozzles in A-bodies is also used in Dodge Motorhomes, (atleast my 78 was the same), I would assume that this applies to vans as well.
 
I myself just did the early b body rear end swap into my 64 dart yesterday. It is almost too wide. but it just fits. and the spring perches have to be moved in slightly.
 
I wouldn't recommend swapping the B body rears into an A body. Like forcing a square peg in a round hole, yeah, you can make it work but its far from being right.

OK now for the positive stuff, We used to swap 340/360's onto slant six K members by using a truck mount on the one side. I must have sold 100 cars built like that and not one person said "hey is that a /6 k member"

A 73/74 B body rear end will bolt right under an 87-96 Dodge Dakota( but you have to weld on your shock mounts.

87-91 Dakota front rotors(5 on 4.5) will bolt right on a Dakota up to 96 which allows you to change from the 6 on 4.5 wheels to standard large bolt pattern wheels.

Some B and E body headers back in the 70's/80's would bolt right on a 67-76 A body with a low deck B motor.

Oh yeah, a 66/67 B body rear will bolt right under a 39 Plymouth chassis.

The outer door handles they used on pickups and vans up into the 90's were the same as they used back in the 60's and 70's on cars

The interior molded arm rest used in some of the 80's/ 90's vans were the same as some of the old B bodies(and A bodies too I think)

All of the 8 1/4, 8 3/4, and 9 1/4, and 9 3/4 backing plates would interchange allowing you to take 11 by 2.5 drums off the B and C bodies and use them on everything else. I used to swap them on the 87-96 Dakotas to get rid of the wimpy rear brakes they had.

I can probably come up with some more after my brain cools off, havnt used that much memory on anything in a while.
 
New Hemi--

1-Any small block bell housings bolt right on the back

2-Any small block starter will work with the bell housing

3-Of coarse than the small block 904 and 727 will bolt right up

4-A833 4 speed will bolt right up to a new Hemi when u take 1/4 off the end of the shaft

5- Input shaft bearings or sleeves press right into the back of the new Hemi crank
 
That's cool about the hemi stuff.

Lots of parts interchange from car to car. I don't know for sure, and wish I tried this when I had the two cars, but I am almost 100% positive about this...

I had a 1973 dart sport and a 1969 barracuda. The hoods looked identical. Like I said, I wish I tried swapping them just to see, but never did. If they are the same, I would love to get a barracuda hood with the 340 chrome pieces and put them on my 340 dart sport.

Another...

With some minor modifications you can put the Drisc brake set up from a late 90's jeep grand Cherokee and bolt onto your 8 3/4 rear end.

Another...

To prime your oil on you engine, befor putting your distributor gear in the engine, use a ford distributor rod ( ya ya, not the correct names) and a drill to prime your oil pump.

Another everyone knows

Dakota hight torque mini starter for any SB.

Another..

Flywheels interchange from big block to small block depending on internal or external balancing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top