Weber Synchronus with stock Kickdown

nm9stheham said
Looking at your return spring, is it pulling directly through the throttle shaft near idle? The axis of the spring always has to be off to one side of the throttle shaft to have any leverage to close it.

Check in the throttle body and see if the throttle plate is closing against the side of the throat; it should always have a small air gap edge of the plate and the throat. If not and it is closing fully against the side of the throat, the idle will tend to be erratic. You have to make other adjustments to get the idle lower.

The throttle body leaves a slight - very slight but there - air gap. The spring is through a hole I drilled lower on the return arm from the stock carb. Your saying I should **** it over towards the firewall and that will give it more pull?

The air screws on both barrels are only 1 turn out each. I'm assuming with the larger carb that's all it needs, but usually I have to adjust out further with the holley. The problem is that the set screw for idle has to be inward abour 1/4" to touch the cam. If you back it off, and manually pull on the throttle closed, it will move into that quarter inch and lower the idle and stumble (asking for more air from the air adjusting screws). I don't have a tach right now, but I know about what 1000rpm sounds like off the fan, and it seems about 900 is the lowest I can get it. The problem is not a leak anywhere, it's the cam that won't return to the screw.

Abodybomber said
those 38/38 Webers, are awesome carbs,tuned right.That's a good price,if it was new. Webers prices skyrocketed,over the years.

It was new, everything still in plastic, made in Spain, but the kit itself was "repackaged" as it says on the box. Guessing that just means they took a bunch of other parts and put them in the box - which I figured if it's a kit...