Wiring?

EDIT. Noticed you have 3 terminals you said. The push on terminal comes from the key, is the start signal


STARTER RELAY....the two push on terminals are the coil. They are electrically interchangeable. On an automatic, one goes down to the neutral safety switch (middle terminal) on the trans and becomes grounded in park / neutral.

On pre- 70 stick cars, if you have a 4 terminal relay, just ground one "push on" terminal. On 70 / later cars, the 4th push on was grounded by a switch on the clutch pedal.

The other push on terminal gets the start signal from the key.

Big stud is battery, small exposed "square" screw feeds the starter solenoid. These last two are the relay contacts

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IGNITION...... Older factory ECUs were "5 pin" and must use a 4 pin resistor. Most / all replacement ECUs are 4 pin. A 4 pin box can have either 4 or 5 physical pins and can use either a 2 or 4 pin resistor. It's simply that the 5th pin is a dummy

In the diagram below, if you have a 4 pin box the left side of the resistor, the green going to the ECU is not needed / not used. NOTICE the upside down U at the bottom of the resistor drawing. This properly orients the resistor (which is two resistors in one housing) to get the proper one IE they are different values

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SPARK.....If you crank engine by jumpering the starter relay, you get a weaker spark as the resistor is still in the circuit, see below. You will NOT get a spark at the reluctor in the distributor. Try wiggling all connections and make ABSOLUTELY certain that the ECU is GROUNDED

Try running a clip / jumper lead from battery to coil + and see if you have spark. Inspect all connectors, the resistor, the ECU, and especially the distributor. "Work" them in/out to scrub the terminals. Check reluctor gap with a .008" (inches not metric) brass feeler. Inspect the reluctor and pickup for strike damage, debri, and heavy rust.

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IGNITION SWITCH.......... Notice "ignition 2" This may not be hooked up, AND MUST BE .....Clip a meter to coil+ and crank the engine USING THE KEY. You should get "same as battery" at coil+ when cranking, and in no case less than 10V

For a temporary "fix" run a clip lead from a battery source (starter relay battery stud) direct to coil+ and see if you have spark

NOTICE that the start circuit from the ignition switch is not shown........it is IMPORTANT to understand that the 'start' which feeds the starter relay and the 'brown bypass' (IGN2) are DIFFERENT and isolated contacts on the switch. Otherwise, there would be a feedback problem


To explain further, all Mopar ignition switches are really SEVERAL separate switches. They are accessory, ignition run (IGN1), start, and bypass (IGN2)

Many of these aftermarket harnesses do not or poorly document the IGN2 wire.

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FIELD WIRING......... Also covered in the diagram below, Either field connection at the alternator is interchangeable. Notice that one field goes to "ignition run" as well as the one post of the regulator. MAKE SURE the regulator is GROUNDED. The remaining (green) coming off the regulator goes to the remaining field terminal at the alternator.
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Can you provide a Summit part no. and is there a place we can download the original destructions?