Need Opinions- 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD

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73SwingerBuild

73SwingerBuild

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Hey all.

Went to look at a truck last weekend and wanted to get some input here, since I know you're all Mopar nuts and a fair few of you have owned a mighty Cummins pickup.

The truck is a White 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 with the 5.9L Diesel and an automatic transmission. I confirmed that he has the "55" block, not the dreaded "53" block that cracks and leaks coolant everywhere. It's a quad cab with a 6' bed, dual 6" stacks (ick, being removed if purchased), and it only has 87,000 miles. It also has the SLT Laramie Package, so it's got all the bells and whistles like heated leather seats and a CD Player.

My issue is he's asking $19,000.

I know of the following issues with these trucks: Auto transmissions start to slip when abused, fuel delivery system is terrible in stock form, track bars are junk, and they rust. I checked out the rockers, cab corners, the frame, and all wheel openings. Rust is just beginning to form at the lower edge of the driver's and passenger side doors, as expected. Otherwise, I couldn't see any rot anywhere.

The fuel system was inspected last year when he bought the truck and he claims the fuel pressure is strong, but he has no gauge. So I'm anticipating at least a new lift pump to save the stock VP44 injection pump.

The transmission seemed a little sluggish, but the truck bed was full of snow and ice, the tires are a bit bigger than stock (285 series all terrain tires), and I've never driven a 4x4 automatic, so I'm not sure what to expect. I know my dad's 2003 Dodge ram cummins 4x2 with an automatic shifts a lot better than this, and it's got ~200k miles on it.

Lastly, when I was taking it for a drive (without the owner), I made sure to corner a lot to test the steering/suspension. The front end seemed a bit wobbly and if I hit a bump the steering wheel would want to turn and I'd need to correct it a lot driving down a mildly bumpy road. I'm guessing the ball joints and track bar are in need of replacement.

So that's about all I have on it. I am thinking that $19,000 is way too high, but I'd like to get some input regarding what this truck may be worth and if I'm overlooking anything.

Thanks all!
-Mike
 
If the trany felt slugish, I would get it checked out, that truck should not care if the bed was full of snow and ice. $19.000 is way over priced. I bought a 2002 2500 4x4 diesel 6spd 102,000 on the clock for $15,000. A good lift pump is a must as is a fuel pres gauge.
 
For $19K you could have a pretty nice 4 door common rail truck with not many more miles. Granted they all have their issues, but I'd take a 2003-2007 over the 1998-2002 any day.
 
I have a 2002 cummins auto 4x4 extended cab short bed. 285 tires are nice on them trucks would not go any higher or any lower. Buy a fass fuel pump and you will be fine, plan to do hauling get a 3 gauge a pillar trim fuel trans piro gauges. if it is lifted the trucks will bounce around. my truck has 117k all stock from a dealer in 2012 paid 17,000 if u can get the truck between 14-17,000 I do not see how u could go wrong. most people do not under stand these 2nd gens blue book value and ( want ) status are rising each year and are worth more than earlier 3rd gen common rails. replace the track bar upper lower ball joints fass fuel system gauges u can por 15 the bottom of the doors to attempt to stop the rust. im in nj so just like u if u do not stop the rust now it will get worse fast. I have seen a few trucks 2 tone them and paint the bottoms with rhino liner. if its stock take the k&n filter off since they clog the turbos up. I run a air filter off a catapillar and I have a small edge ez tuner on the truck, retimes it and adds a little more fuel.
 
these trucks transmissions always seem sluggish unless it is built. u will know if its slipping. but they have a relaxed shift to them stock. do a 1/4 1/2 throttle drive from 20 mph to 55 and u will know right then about the trans. also take the tube off that goes to the turbo and check the turbo shaft for side to side play and in and out play. of course not running ;) I looked at the same truck with 90,000 on it price was 20,000 in 2012
 
6" dual stacks? Screams redneck abuse to me. 19K is pretty high dollar unless it has full service history, lift pump, RV75 injectors, tranny beef-up (it's basically a 727), and a working heater.

www.cumminsforum.com
 
jaws said:
If the trany felt slugish, I would get it checked out, that truck should not care if the bed was full of snow and ice. $19.000 is way over priced. I bought a 2002 2500 4x4 diesel 6spd 102,000 on the clock for $15,000. A good lift pump is a must as is a fuel pres gauge.
Click to expand...

KBB and Edmunds TMV seems to place it around $13-15,000. $19,000 definitely seemed high to me, and I'm guessing it's because there's not many of these with this little rust in New England.

cascius said:
For $19K you could have a pretty nice 4 door common rail truck with not many more miles. Granted they all have their issues, but I'd take a 2003-2007 over the 1998-2002 any day.
Click to expand...

Very true. But i'd prefer the 3/4 cab rather than having the full 4-door.

quartermilepass said:
I have a 2002 cummins auto 4x4 extended cab short bed. 285 tires are nice on them trucks would not go any higher or any lower. Buy a fass fuel pump and you will be fine, plan to do hauling get a 3 gauge a pillar trim fuel trans piro gauges. if it is lifted the trucks will bounce around. my truck has 117k all stock from a dealer in 2012 paid 17,000 if u can get the truck between 14-17,000 I do not see how u could go wrong. most people do not under stand these 2nd gens blue book value and ( want ) status are rising each year and are worth more than earlier 3rd gen common rails. replace the track bar upper lower ball joints fass fuel system gauges u can por 15 the bottom of the doors to attempt to stop the rust. im in nj so just like u if u do not stop the rust now it will get worse fast. I have seen a few trucks 2 tone them and paint the bottoms with rhino liner. if its stock take the k&n filter off since they clog the turbos up. I run a air filter off a catapillar and I have a small edge ez tuner on the truck, retimes it and adds a little more fuel.
Click to expand...

Good tip with the POR-15, and it has an aftermarket CAI set up, but I could change out the filter assembly pretty easily.


quartermilepass said:
these trucks transmissions always seem sluggish unless it is built. u will know if its slipping. but they have a relaxed shift to them stock. do a 1/4 1/2 throttle drive from 20 mph to 55 and u will know right then about the trans. also take the tube off that goes to the turbo and check the turbo shaft for side to side play and in and out play. of course not running ;) I looked at the same truck with 90,000 on it price was 20,000 in 2012
Click to expand...

This is good to know. I expected it to be a little sluggish (based on what I've read). I know it wasn't used to tow much, and it was only used to plow the original owner's 400' driveway, never any commercial use.

C130 Chief said:
6" dual stacks? Screams redneck abuse to me. 19K is pretty high dollar unless it has full service history, lift pump, RV75 injectors, tranny beef-up (it's basically a 727), and a working heater.

www.cumminsforum.com
Click to expand...

Right, I expect it was definitely toyed with, buy these trucks can take a lot of abuse. I'm just trying to weigh the risks.

I'm pretty much planning on replacing both fuel pumps (lift and injection), flush the transmission and replace the filter and any sensors, flush both differentials, and POR-15 the existing rust spots. It's going to be used 50% as a work truck for my income property and 50% for recreational use (very limited towing, if any), with fairly little daily driving.

What do you guys think would be a fair offer?

Thanks again for all of your reponses.

-Mike
 
Mileage is low for this year but 19k I think is top dollar for this truck. Rear bed wheel lips are rust magnets. This is the last year for this body style. Should at the very least be reto-fitted with the in tank fuel pump from Dodge if you don't do the Fass thing. Also the ball joints and hubs in the front will set you back a few grand unless you do all the work yourself. Any rust and you can't get the hubs off and when you add heat, their trashed. Bought this one in july out of carolina. asking was 17k, got it for 14k. needed a few thinks, upper and lower ball joints and hubs but was a one owner 100,000
mile truck.
 

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That is a nice truck... I'm looking at the same thing, but it's White. Same interior and everything haha.

Just spoke with the owner and he says he "thinks" it has 3.55:1 gears, which is exactly what I was hoping for... This thing is sounding better if I can get his price down. I mentioned the fuel pump and front end components. He says the track bar is fairly new, but the steering seemed spongy. I just don't want to buy the thing and instantly need to sink $4-$5,000 in replacement parts.

Of course, even if I had to do that, this thing will run for another 100,000 miles with nothing but oil changes and air filters... so there's that.
 
these trucks are like mopars location location location, same truck u can buy in texas for 13,000 is 20,000 up here. leather seats and everything he is asking what the truck is worth. if you can get it for 16,000 you will be happy. and yes for 19000 u can get a common rail with more miles than this truck has. a 03 04 common rail is around 22-25,000 up here in north east with 120k plus miles. second gens are worth more than the earlier years of 3rd gen around here. honestly if the truck was beat beat most likely the rust would show that. because if u beat the **** out of it why would you take care of it ya know. my friend can build u a trans that u cant break with a warranty for pretty good prices down here in nj compared to the higher end companies with shitty customer service. most likely that truck has the pump retrofitted to the tank already so I would just do a fass setup fuel wise and that's it
 
 
He says he has somebody coming to look at it this weekend. It's still listed at $19,000. I'll see what happens. They may be dumb enough to pay the asking price. I know I wouldn't lol. Thanks for all of the input everybody. I appreciate it. And if you think of anything else to pay attention to on these trucks, feel free to post it here still. I know I'll be looking at more.

-Mike
 
I did think about selling mine for a mega cab lol, all in all second gens are pretty good besides normal dodge rot we all deal with what since the 50s 60s lol

basically when u look under one check frame from front end to back, rockers doors lips

under hood oil/ coolant leaks, it wont hide it. mess of wires everywhere.

driving steering side to side see if it roams around. hit bumps at under 10 mph listen for clunking banging mostly will feel it through the floor board. trans wise do a 1/4 throttle to 1/2 throttle hit from 20 mph to 55 or so and let it calm down and let it downshift by itself see if it hits hard or not it shouldn't. when driving do a steady 40 mph and very slowly hit 45 mph and then ease on up to 47 48 mph and leave it there for awhile repeat a couple times can be a sign of convertor some times they just need a noise isolator for wires doing cross talk and it getting confused trying to hit lockup. bring a gauge to stick into the vents and try the air make sure it works knows for the systems to fail, mine did it when I got it had to have whole dash dropped and all a/c components replaced. check the normal 4x4 check if it is one 5 mph in 4wd turn to see if the truck tries to hop wit ha slight turn of the wheel. some are known for the rear window to leak so check for mold on seat rails. bout all I can tell u common wise. when it all comes down to it , it is all common sense stuff that will tell u yes or no, should be fine
 
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