Noob question on separating block / tranny

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bighammer

bighammer

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I really don't like posting such basic questions, learning as I go here :newb: and still showing my ignorance...

I have an engine and tranny on the garage floor, still bolted together, pulled em out of a 1990 truck to eventually use in my Dart.

Question is, on the flex plate, can I just take the 4 bolts out one at a time, and then unbolt the bell housing from the block? Then the tranny should just slide off the engine (?)

Tricks? Tips?

BTW, I just ordered a shop manual for my car, it's not here yet, so be nice 8)
 
You remove the inspection plate, remove the four convertor bolts, push the convertor back into the transmission (about 1/4-1/2"), then unbolt the bellhousing while supporting the trans and engine. Then they just pop apart. Don;t forget the lower bell bolts (larger diameter) and make sure they are supported so the trans doesn't fall or put stress on the bolts as you're loosening them.
 
You don't REALLY need to mark them, as they only fit one way, and most? all? do have an index mark. Make sure the converter is free, you don't want it stuck in the crank register and drag the converter out with the engine, in fact I always make a scrap metal bracket on a lower bolt to retain the converter in the trans.

Use you head. If the trans weight is sorta "hanging" on the engine, remove the two top bell bolts last. If the trans is sort of "lifting up" as on a tire or block, pull the two large bottom bolts last.

You do know? you can download shop manuals for free?
 
67Dart273 said:
You don't REALLY need to mark them, as they only fit one way, and most? all? do have an index mark. Make sure the converter is free, you don't want it stuck in the crank register and drag the converter out with the engine, in fact I always make a scrap metal bracket on a lower bolt to retain the converter in the trans.

Use you head. If the trans weight is sorta "hanging" on the engine, remove the two top bell bolts last. If the trans is sort of "lifting up" as on a tire or block, pull the two large bottom bolts last.

You do know? you can download shop manuals for free?
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I've yet to see an index mark, granted I've only done three. When the engine is in and the tranny is in place, not a good time to find out the hard way. Anyway, doesn't hurt to put a spot of silver paint on the tc and the ear it unbolted from! I don't doubt there's an index mark, if you could clue me in I'd be a happy guy!!
 
Thank you all! It wasn't really much of an effort after all, but what a relief to know I was doing it the right way! I made sure there was no strain on the bell housing, used some shims and lumber, made sure I got all the bolts removed, the previous person who did the assembly already had blue paint on the corresponding bolt holes.

It came apart super easy, I was amazed. Thank you all for the assistance. Many more thanks to come!
 

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pyrojim said:
I've yet to see an index mark, !
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I'm fairly new to TF too, used to be a stick guy, don't know if they are all marked

Here:

wwitqw.jpg
 
here's a question, what if you are reusing the flex plate, but getting a different converter/transmission entirely? how do you know what's the correct way for them to mate then?
 
PanGasket said:
here's a question, what if you are reusing the flex plate, but getting a different converter/transmission entirely? how do you know what's the correct way for them to mate then?
Click to expand...

Thanks for asking.....

This is exactly my situation. Good question. Inquiring minds want to know!
 
They only bolt up one way. If you don't have the index marks, you have to screw in a bolt, and turn it to see where it lines up. That is, assuming you didn't just lay the flex onto the converter before you installed it.

The later magnums have the weights on the flex plate, and don't have the "one way" bolt pattern
 
67Dart273 said:
They only bolt up one way. If you don't have the index marks, you have to screw in a bolt, and turn it to see where it lines up. That is, assuming you didn't just lay the flex onto the converter before you installed it.

The later magnums have the weights on the flex plate, and don't have the "one way" bolt pattern
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so how would one swap an LA engine with a Magnum in a truck like mine with those issues?
 
I haven't done so but the "forum consensus" is that you can "oblong" one hole in the magnum flex to fit the LA converter

My understanding is that Magnum engines are balanced on the flex, where LA is balanced on the converter, unless you use something like a BM weighted flex plate

Do a search there are MANY posts here on this
 
Good info 67dart273. I have put quite a few together and never gave a thought there would be markings of some sort.
 
I take the flex plate off, lay it on the new convertor, and spray paint accross one ear. Original flex plates have the hole. Replacements may or may not. Replacement convertors are not marked - least none I ever saw.
 
I did not find a V marked on mine. The plug is directly opposite though, so used that as reference point. Be sure to mark it near the outer holes though on both the plate and converter. I was not able to see the small hole in plate with trans in place on engine.
 

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Another factor to keep in mind when mix matching is flex plate bolt length. Torque converters have nut blocks welded on that are clear bored. If the flex plate is a little thin and/or the bolts are a little long, The bolt might go clear through and dimple the converter shell. Just a slight dimple can damage the converter internally.
Good luck with it.
 
Good info. One thing that I noticed and can't wrap my mind around is the fact that there are only 4 SMALL bolts tying the crank to the tranny. So on all these hot rodded engines with 400+ horsepower! that can be a lot of torque applied to those bolts. I've never heard of high performance flex plates, although I have heard of using ARP bolts for extra strength. But then I've never heard of someone shearing off the bolts either. Seems like it would be a problem.
 
That's the thing - they are stresed in a shear direction, and by torquing that load is spread over a larger area than just the shaft of the bolt. I was never worried about the bolts, but I've always wondered about the plate itself - it's abole to move and twist a lot so you've figure over time they'd weaken significantly... But they don;t seem to.
 
Also the mounting holes in the plate are somewhat larger in diameter than the bolts, leaving substantial wiggle room in there. Plus there were no washers used with the bolts. Odd. Is that correct? What about the possibility of 'galling' the plate?
 
There isn't a sudden impact like torque on the sides of those bolts. If and when they do come loose ( it happens ) there will be a knocking noise at start, stop, or both since there is a sideward impact at that instance. This fault needs to be addressed a.s.a.p. or sufficient damage to the bolts and holes will ruin them.
 
pyrojim said:
Thanks 67dart273.
I've never seen them but never really looked either! That us good info!
Click to expand...

Good info!

I just spray painted each "corner" a different color. then just just matched up the colors when I was underneath.
 
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