Lets discuss my cooling

-
straightlinespeed

straightlinespeed

Sometimes I pretend to be normal
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
10,630
Reaction score
4,399
Location
Uvita, Costa Rica
Ok here is the set up. 71 Scamp, 360, xe268 cam, magnum heads, air gap, Holley 670, TTI Headers, 727, 3:73 gears. Pretty sure that is all.

Now with that being said, the car originally had a 318 and never over heated, didnt matter if it was idling or driving. After I put the 360 in it, I cant get it to cool worth a crap while at idle. Once it starts getting hotter, it never really seems to cool back down but will sit at that temp or rise more if stopped. Until I am forced to pull over and shut the car off to let it cool back down.

Now I do have the stock radiator in it and some of the fins are toasted and disintegrating in a lower corner. Running the factory fan, I also have never had the shroud for this, which I know will help but how much?

So what are your thoughts as to my situation and why I cant get it to cool worth a crap. I would love to get it to the point I can idle in traffic or at a stop sign. Thanks
 
Along with the "usual suspects" not enough rad, big fan, shroud and all the rest, "Oldmanmopar" awhile back posted a theory which I think "was" my problem

I HAD the factory 273 original rad, and whether 360 or 318, it would run pretty warm

I TRIED successfully a junk 73 SLANT SIX rad in the car, and it cooled right down

Except for physical design the two are close to the same.....two core rad, on the old round tank, the other the more modern late style tanks.

His theory? That various thermal expansion (and I'm thinking partial freezing along with pressure) causes the tubes to deform and otherwise become SEPARATED from the fins, which leaves you with a rad that LOOKS fine, FLOWS lots and lots of coolant, and does not transfer very much heat.
 
Pull the radiator and give it away. Pull the thermostat and reinstall the top hose. Take a garden hose and back flush the block for 10 minutes down the top rad hose towards the engine.
Also get a high flow 180 thermostat.
You need a bigger radiator which will accept a factory shroud. What is your core support opening dimensions? Not that crucial anyway. Whats really important is what is your height from core support crossmember to top of core support? What is the space between your frame rails? Example: My 74 duster will accept a 76 valiant rad which is way bigger and the shroud from the valiant will work too. I recommend a new rock auto radiator made for an AC volare , valiant, fifth ave or aspen with the factory shroud and a 6 blade thermostatic clutch can.
 
Fan shrouds are important to keep the air flowing through the radiator, not around it.

It helps the fan pull the air through the radiator.


When it runs hot, try running a garden hose or car wash and spray the radiator and see if it will cool down. That will tell you that the radiator is your "bottleneck/weak link"...


When picking an improved radiator, area is better than depth. Use up as much area (height & width) before adding more rows. Thicker radiators have more restriction to air flow.
 
Could always go this route, if you're not worried about looking stock.

IMG_1558_zps3b79216a.jpg


Champion 26" 3 core radiator with an OE ford contour dual electric fan set up.
Here's my install posts on it...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970313646#post1970313646

And here's goldduster318's thread on it. He was the one that figured it all out, I just copied his set up :D. He also has a very nice PDF on how to install all of it.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970104719#post1970104719
 
Rice Nuker said:
Pull the radiator and give it away. Pull the thermostat and reinstall the top hose. Take a garden hose and back flush the block for 10 minutes down the top rad hose towards the engine.
Also get a high flow 180 thermostat.
You need a bigger radiator which will accept a factory shroud. What is your core support opening dimensions? Not that crucial anyway. Whats really important is what is your height from core support crossmember to top of core support? What is the space between your frame rails? Example: My 74 duster will accept a 76 valiant rad which is way bigger and the shroud from the valiant will work too. I recommend a new rock auto radiator made for an AC volare , valiant, fifth ave or aspen with the factory shroud and a 6 blade thermostatic clutch can.
Click to expand...

Totally agree on this, as I have been there a few times with different cars.
If that radiator is that bad on the outside, think of how restricted it must be on the inside.

Radiator, thermostat, flush the block, shroud, fan clutch and you will never have to mess with it again.
(Don't use corrugated "fits all" radiator hoses)
 
Thank you everyone for your input. I can tell you this. When I was tuning the car it was getting hot. I got a house fan and put it in front of the car and turned it on. That little house fan was enough to stop the temp from creeping up. So if I understand correctly, the radiator is my whole problem.

So can anyone explain to me why the 360 builds so much more heat than the 318. Is it the fact that its built up?

Will I still have to back flow the block even though its a brand new engine? Less than 500 miles on it. I am also currently running a 180* stat. What also sucks is that I have a high quality aluminum radiator for free, (from my brother) but its for a 66 Barracuda so the lower connection is on the wrong side.
 
straightlinespeed said:
So can anyone explain to me why the 360 builds so much more heat than the 318. Is it the fact that its built up?.
Click to expand...

What is the level of the build, and yes more HP is more heat plain and simple

Engines only have a thermal efficiency of somewhere around 25 percent or a little more, so with that much at waste, it doesn't take much added to make a LOT more heat to get rid of

On top of that, your 360 might be fairly new and "a little tight" and have more friction loss.
 
Thanks Del,

Ok, that explains it more or less. The 318 I consider it more or less stock, had a small cam upgrade, intake and carb. The 360 is a new build, moderate cam, bored, etc..

So I will be reading thru 72's threads and looking at doing something perhaps like that. Im not worried about the stock look since I've changed my car so much. I do however see a mix of emotions on Champion radiators, but a majority of the users liking them. Does anyone else have a favorite brand that will not break the bank.
 
The Champion Radiator (26" 3 row) with the Contour Fan is really the way to go. It cools really well, the fans even cycle on a 90 degree day. I doubt you'll be able to find a better setup for anything even close to the price. I have the PDF with all the diagrams and what you need. Just send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send it off.

Here's some pictures of it installed
20130828_184658_zps3863295e.jpg

finished_fan_zps16b8bdf9.jpg
 
Im running a 400 horse 340 with a factory style radiator from classic industries cant remember but its either a 2 row or 3 row with mechanical factory fan js
 
67Dart273 said:
Along with the "usual suspects" not enough rad, big fan, shroud and all the rest, "Oldmanmopar" awhile back posted a theory which I think "was" my problem

I HAD the factory 273 original rad, and whether 360 or 318, it would run pretty warm

I TRIED successfully a junk 73 SLANT SIX rad in the car, and it cooled right down

Except for physical design the two are close to the same.....two core rad, on the old round tank, the other the more modern late style tanks.

His theory? That various thermal expansion (and I'm thinking partial freezing along with pressure) causes the tubes to deform and otherwise become SEPARATED from the fins, which leaves you with a rad that LOOKS fine, FLOWS lots and lots of coolant, and does not transfer very much heat.
Click to expand...

needsaresto said:
I like that thermal expansion theory. It makes sense.
Click to expand...

It sure made a dramatic difference in mine. I had taken the old rad to a shop, he said it didn't need cleaned, and I had flushed it with a can of "stuff" from the store. In one day the old rad went from nearly 3/4 scale on the gauge to less than the 1/2 mark. It didn't boil, just ran pretty warm. Of course when I put the newer junker in there it was "just something to try." I had no idea.....................
 
straightlinespeed said:
Ok here is the set up. 71 Scamp, 360, xe268 cam, magnum heads, air gap, Holley 670, TTI Headers, 727, 3:73 gears. Pretty sure that is all.

Now with that being said, the car originally had a 318 and never over heated, didnt matter if it was idling or driving. After I put the 360 in it, I cant get it to cool worth a crap while at idle. Once it starts getting hotter, it never really seems to cool back down but will sit at that temp or rise more if stopped. Until I am forced to pull over and shut the car off to let it cool back down.

Now I do have the stock radiator in it and some of the fins are toasted and disintegrating in a lower corner. Running the factory fan, I also have never had the shroud for this, which I know will help but how much?

So what are your thoughts as to my situation and why I cant get it to cool worth a crap. I would love to get it to the point I can idle in traffic or at a stop sign. Thanks
Click to expand...

Does it stay cool on the highway at speed?
 
Hey I like your coolant expansion tank, can you tell me the brand of it and also the horn when I am right, right next to the coolant expansion tank.
 
66fs said:
Does it stay cool on the highway at speed?
Click to expand...


Yes it does for the most part. I say this because if Im stopped and the temp gets to high and to a certain point it will not cool back down, but will hold at that temp. Of course this is on the very hot days.

During normal driving its pretty consistent.
 
oliator said:
Hey I like your coolant expansion tank, can you tell me the brand of it and also the horn when I am right, right next to the coolant expansion tank.
Click to expand...

Its this one: [ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weapon-R-826-134-101-Aluminum-Coolant-Overflow-Reverse-Tank-24-fl-oz-Universal-/310863514764?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4860e8cc8c&vxp=mtr"]Weapon R 826 134 101 Aluminum Coolant Overflow Reverse Tank 24 FL oz Universal | eBay[/ame]

The horn is a stock horn...
 
straightlinespeed said:
Yes it does for the most part. I say this because if Im stopped and the temp gets to high and to a certain point it will not cool back down, but will hold at that temp. Of course this is on the very hot days.

During normal driving its pretty consistent.
Click to expand...

That tells me your radiator should be OK. Your fan is just not pulling enough air at idle or low speed. You verified that with the house fan. I'd try one of the cupped OEM flex fans to see if that does the trick. Worked on my Dodge PU years ago.
 
Im running a 7 blade stock fan now. I didnt know that they made a factory flex fan.

I could also look for a shroud for my car, that might help. Although with the radiator fins starting to disintegrate, it still might be time for a new radiator.
 
Generally if you have cooling issues you are better off with a clutch fan setup or a solid fan rather than a flex.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top