Replacing sealed beams with conversions

Even if the H4s are run using stock wattage, 55/60 IIRC, the fuse issue is the relay system. Drawing power off the alternator (or battery) means no protection for the the relatively high current wires. I don't recall Dan ever writing not to use a circuit breaker. I was going to use a pair I bought from Waytek wire, but then decided I liked the marine type fuse holders better so went that route.

Stock wiring. To add content to the 'junk' comments. The stock wiring is the absolute minimum for carrying the current. IIRC its 16 ga. from the dimmer switch to the headlight. That, and then any connection that is less than ideal and there is enough resistance to either melt something or trip the breaker inside the headlight switch. I've had both happen with just the standard headlights.

Hella H4s have a bigger difference in the hights of the low beam and high beam than the Cibie's. The Hella's with DOT marks are not quite as pronounced IMO. I've used all three at standard wattage and they are all pretty darn good, especially compared to plain ole sealed beams. They also pretty much eliminate the need for foglights unless your in a place that's really really soupy. Funny part is that Scott Harvey tried tell us this back in the 60s in an article he wrote about rallying.