73 Plymouth Valiant no electricity

Low, you should never tag onto someone else's thread like this as it makes two "things" difficult to follow, but in this case this one seems to be dead, anyhow.

Some "stuff"

First thing to try is get yourself a clip lead and clip from starter relay battery stud (battery source) directly to coil positive terminal, and see if you have spark.

It is important to understand how Mopar ignition switches work. "Ignition run" or "IGN1" is powered ONLY in the run position, not start, nor accessory, and feeds power (among other things) to the ignition and alternator field, and dash cluster

THIS GOES DEAD in "start." The only ignition power for "start" (crank) comes from IGN2 or the "bypass" circuit. This is a separate switch contact in the ign switch which only goes one place-------out the bulkhead connector to the coil + side of the coil

IF the clip lead trick does not give you spark,

Remove the ECU from the firewall, scrape the firewall and ECU clean around the bolt holes, and remount, using star lock washers. The ECU MUST be grounded

Pull all connectors, the ECU, the resistor, the distributor, inspect with a light, and work in/ out several times. The distributor is especially fussy as there is no real current in that connector.

Check for spark right at the coil tower using a grounded probe, that is, eliminate even the coil HT wire.

Get yourself a .008" (inches not metric) brass feeler gauge. O'Reallys used to stock these. Check the reluctor to pickup coil gap in the distributor, and check it carefully for strike damage, play in the shaft, rust and debri sticking to the (magnetized) pickup coil.

With the key in "run" disconnect the distributor connector. I forget which one, so try both terminals. You can ground /unground one of the distributor pickup terminals and produce a spark each time. This shows the ECU is "probably" OK

Connect your meter to the distributor connector, on low AC that's right AC volts. Cranking the engine should "generate" about 1V AC

Check coil + voltage. With key in run, voltage at coil+ will be somewhere between 4 and 8 volts. If it's same as battery, something is wrong.

You have a tach? It should "jump" as you crank the engine. Or hook your multimeter or a test lamp to coil NEG. and crank. Light should go bright / dim meter should jump

Put your meter on coil + and crank the engine USING THE KEY. This should give you "same as" cranking battery voltage, and in no case less than 10V, the more the better.