Puk'in Fluid

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pentastarpro

pentastarpro

speed trials
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Just finished up assembly of original 69' 340ci +.040 10.5:1 and running on run-in rack. X-heads, Edelbrock Performer w/650cfm spread bore and 292/.508 hyd cam. Sounds great and runs for 10min then boils over and pukes about a gallon of water out. Heat cycled twice and re-torqued heads. Edelbrock top end gaskets used and assembled correctly. Removed thermostat with same results. Using original 69' style iron water pump with full flow bypass hose. Thinking of changing to late model alum water pump but lower hose is on opposite side. Ready to install in 65 valiant 200 coupe but stumped on this one. Any experiences are appreciated. I'm done with guessing.
 

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sounds like air trapped inside or a blockage of some sort.
 
1970Duster said:
sounds like air trapped inside or a blockage of some sort.
Click to expand...
raise front of car before filling antifreeze-water while ideling, fill slowly, air will work out. always worked for me, especially if the rad. cap is lower than the engine.-----------bob
 
After I fill a radiator, I start the motor with the radiator cap loose. This allows the air bubbles to escape so that they don't get trapped in the system. I let it warm up a bit to allow the fluid to expand and the heat pressurizes the air bubbles through the path of least resistance (loose cap). Always worked for me.

Where is the fluid "puking" out of?

-Mike
 
10 minutes is pretty quick to overheat if there is enough coolant and it is actually flowing. As a couple of guys suggested make sure there are is no air trapped (unusual with these in my experience).

It strikes me that the coolant is not flowing correctly. Is the rad and upper and lower hoses actually hot? When running with cap removed do you see it flowing? Check thermostat is not upside down (I've made that miskake!). Maybe bad water pump?
 
Edelbrock head gaskets only go on one way with water flow from block to head in back, intake only flows water from head to intake in front. No thermostat to restrict water/air flow. Run-in stand has large/good radiator w/electric fan well above intake manifold. Engine sitting slightly high in front. Pukes water out overflow or top tank w/cap removed. Water doesn't flow very fast past fill cap but appears to be flowing across the tank. Removed iron water pump and compared to later alum and found the fins are shaped opposite but this shouldn't make a difference as the rotation is the same. Need to find different radiator for car if I go top later alum pump. I doubt it is trapped air with thermostat removed. I'm tired of guessing

BCP
 
73SwingerBuild said:
After I fill a radiator, I start the motor with the radiator cap loose. This allows the air bubbles to escape so that they don't get trapped in the system. I let it warm up a bit to allow the fluid to expand and the heat pressurizes the air bubbles through the path of least resistance (loose cap). Always worked for me.

Where is the fluid "puking" out of?

-Mike
Click to expand...


I also start my engines with the radiator cap loose. Then watch the temp gauge until it heats up and the thermostat opens, then top off the radiator and squeeze the upper radiator hose to help "burp" the air out of the system.

You have to let the thermostat open to help purge the air out. It can trap some air when closed.



Puking fluid.... :pukerigh:
 
Timing set to 12* initial w/32* max.
Removed thermostat with same results (as above).
No old freeze plugs in water jacket area.
Both top & bottom hoses are getting hot as it warms up and radiator has heat too.
Temp gun shows warm-up as normal then it flashes to 212*-215* after 8-10 min.
What am I missing?

BCP
 
Or just drill the thermostat and never have to mess with trapped air again.

It would be nice if we didn't have to guess, but it's all part of the diagnostics sometimes.

The VERY next step I would take is to get a cooling system tester on it and see if it is a compression leak making bubbles in the coolant.
There is a fine line in the diagnostics between overheating and pushing coolant out or pushing coolant out and overheating.
 
Raising the front of motor would trap more air in front of block as passages to head start between front two cylinders. Seems like close to level would be best to evacuate air from system.
Still not sure if bypass hose is allowing too much water to flow directly to intake which would reduce amount flowing through block & heads. I have never seen a restrictor in any previous builds (SB, B, RB).
 
Raising the front will not trap air, and that is not your trouble. An air lock causes "non" circulation, and if both hoses are warm, that ain't the trouble. If water level is still up after running a bit of time then there's no air problem What do you have for a fan?

I'm still with TB. Find someone with a "blok test" (chemical test) for combustion leakage. Not sure, you might be able to take a sample in a sealed container to a shop for test. The exhaust gas becomes absorbed in the coolant
 
Got a pressure tester? If so, pump up the radiator and go get a beer or two, making note of the pressure on the tester before walking away. I always put a pressure tester on the cooling system of anything I fill, helps to push fluid every where and verify that there are no leaks of any sorts....
 
Once the engine is hot,, putting on a pressure tester will tell if cyl press is going into coolant...

and this is wayyy out there,, but you mentioned the waterpump vane difference..

Well a marine pump can be reverse rotation,,, and will cause a problem at speeds over idle,, ask me how I know... it's not likely,, but.... ???

(Folks decided that over $125 for a "Mercruiser" small block water pump, can be replaced with $30 automotive pump,,, it'll idle outta the harbour,, but anything over 2000 rpm,, overheat... lol.. wrong rotation... seen it a few times.. )
 
pentastarpro said:
Raising the front of motor would trap more air in front of block as passages to head start between front two cylinders. Seems like close to level would be best to evacuate air from system.
Still not sure if bypass hose is allowing too much water to flow directly to intake which would reduce amount flowing through block & heads. I have never seen a restrictor in any previous builds (SB, B, RB).
Click to expand...

In any normal system the coolant will circulate the air out anyway, so it really shouldn't matter.
(also I have NEVER seen one that the bypass caused these problems either)

It could happen that the engine is already hot enough to push coolant out before the thermostat opens though, and this is exactly one of the reasons I drill a 1/8 hole in the thermostat plate before it goes in.
It circulates the air out way before the engine gets hot enough to puke coolant.

He has a compression leak into the cooling system, or a circulation problem.
Simple as that.
 
You may be on to something there since he said he had flow threw radiator. It may not be enough flow caused by wrong type pump.
 
Found it!! Replaced water pump, drilled bleeder hole in thermostat, added another electric fan for increased cooling air, watch carefully for out-gassing in water (nothing), and same results again. Just for s#!+$ & giggles shot the temp gun on bottom tank of radiator at 103* and top was 195*. Seems that one of the last run-ins had something in the engine that has gelled in the radiator. Easy to replace. Thanks to all for hints, suggestions, and advice. I am done guessing on this one.
 
Well the lower tank is suppose to be cooler than the top. Water circulates from the bottom to the top. Thou 195 and 103 is to much of a difference. Sounds like you need a new test radiator.
 
krazykuda said:
You could always just name your car "Ralph"....
Click to expand...

OMFG I haven't heard that since I got out of the Navy in '74

"Calling O' Rourke" was another take
 

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