Engine mounts 318 - 360

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bighammer

bighammer

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I'm a little confused and could use some info or advise on motor mounts. I understood that the difference between a 318 block and a 360 block (as far as motor mounts) was that with a 360 block and 318 mount, a spacer would be required in order to use the 318 mount on a 360 block

Below is the driver side engine mount on my 360 (1990 truck) block. I will post a picture of a 318 mount in the next post.
 

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Here is a 318 mount on the 360 block. Obviously it will take more than a spacer in order to mount the third bolt. The mounting hole on the mount itself is not in line with the casting hole. A spacer won't do anything.
 

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Can you weld?

That one takes some fab work to get it right. Narrow it and move the rear ear up.






You can also take a piece of stock and weld it to the inside edge of the mount, taking up the spacer thickness and drilling a hole in the appropriate place.
 
Thanks for the pictures.

Now to add to my confusion...

If you can look past the years of grime and sludge, here is a picture of my existing 318 block and mount. Look at that unused 'ear' on the block. Looks like a 360 mount might work here... (?)
 

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that's cool and all. but why go through all that trouble when you can get repros from mancini at a reasonable cost?
 
Isn't it about $90 for just the drivers side, $150ish for the set.
 
crackedback said:
Isn't it about $90 for just the drivers side, $150ish for the set.
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However I don't have a welder...


They are cheaper than a welder if you don't have one. and they look much stronger than the originals.

Here they are, and they sell a "Package" with:

Kits include powder-coated brackets, factory-style insulators & grade 8 bolts.
$146.95
MREA67LA


So you get both side brackets, they are powder coated, with the insulators and mounting bolts for $150. Not cheap, but not outrageous for what you are getting. The powder coating is going to cost a little, then the brackets look much stronger than the OEM, and the insulators, and grade 8 mounting bolts.

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/abenswapandr.html
 
That is true, but I bought a used set from a member here for $60 with mounts, no bolts. Bead blasted and rattle canned them and they look good as new. I would make a Parts Wanted post and see what happens.
 
DarcCuda66 said:
If he's moving from 318 to 360, doesn't Schumacher make a bolt in solution for that?


Just wondering, correct me if I'm wrong.

Unless he's just wanting to budget build / replace. Although motor mounts isn't one place I would skimp on.

Brian's idea is a good one.

That motor is filthy! Looks like it's had some fun :D...hopefully....and it's not from leaks...
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Yes. I believe that Mancini Racing sells the Shumacher mounts. that's what I was referring to....
 
Some blocks have that lower mounting point...some don't. I'll have to look at mine now. I was planning on using 318 mounts too. My original late 72 Challenger 318 block only has three mounting locations. The later 73 318 block I have in the car has four.
 
318 mount on my 360 block left side all i did was have a buddy weld a plate than he use ed the other as a guide and drilled it nice and straight,cast nothing.
 

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TO THE OP: The pictures you posted are one of a Pickup and the other a Car. I have used 318 mounts for 360's no problem. I have 273 mounts right now holding in my 318. I have used 340 mounts for a 360 too. You just have to make sure the that if you are doing a truck, you have the correct small block mounts for that truck, or if you are doing a car, that you have the correct small block mounts for that car. I've never had any issues with any of the combo swaps... I used the same mounts in a dart for all three motors I swapped in the car, a 318, 340 and 360. I did the same with a pickup, many other projects. NO ISSUES at all!! however I have not done a magnum in place of an LA yet....
 
You CAN do it without a welder. The first time around from 273 brackets to 360, I did this:

Took one of the 360 mounts "for a pattern" and bolted it "other way round" to the pass side 273 mount to provide a jig to drill the extra hole

On the driver side, I added a piece of scrap strap down alongside the mount and up to the block ear, drilled holes, and bolted the whole thing together

(Later went to spool mounts which are about 1000000 times better design)
 
I bought my mounts from Schumacher for a 360 block. I pulled my 318 and dropped the 360 block 408 in with no mods, welding, or anything. Worked beautifully.
 
I just bought the mounts from NAPA and I think they were under $20 each. The one side did need a couple of washers, but much better then welding your own or spending $100. I was also going from a 68 k member to a 73, so I just used 74 360 duster as my car for the guy behind the counter.
 
Hersbird said:
I just bought the mounts from NAPA and I think they were under $20 each. The one side did need a couple of washers, but much better then welding your own or spending $100. I was also going from a 68 k member to a 73, so I just used 74 360 duster as my car for the guy behind the counter.
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So you swapped out a 318 for a 360 in your A-body with an over the counter part from NAPA? I'm thinking I won't be able to do that cuz my car is a 70 and doesn't have the spool type mounts.
 
I guess my brother and I were lucky...this is the driver side mount on his new 340, plucked from the 360 that was installed in his '72 Scamp before...I'm pretty sure this is originally a 318 mount with some washers used to take up the difference.
 

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txstang84 said:
I guess my brother and I were lucky...this is the driver side mount on his new 340, plucked from the 360 that was installed in his '72 Scamp before...I'm pretty sure this is originally a 318 mount with some washers used to take up the difference.
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The biscuit is located on the rear side of that mount. It should be front side. See the mounts pictured above for orientation.

Could also drill fresh holes to orient it properly.
 
Thanks for the heads up-I'll take another look at it when I get back to the house...gotta run out for the umpteenth time to pick up more stuff at the parts store.
 
txstang84 said:
Thanks for the heads up-I'll take another look at it when I get back to the house...gotta run out for the umpteenth time to pick up more stuff at the parts store.
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No sweat.

After dropping in an engine and the trans crossmember not being close to lining up, too far back from trans mount, you get to figure that stuff out on the fly.

The way I always remember the biscuit orientation, A bodies always to the front! :)
 
crackedback said:
The way I always remember the biscuit orientation, A bodies always to the front! :)
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Cracked, you lost me on this? How do you change the orientation of the insulators? There are two holes in the mount, one for the bolt and one for the locating nub. What am I missing? I don't want to put mine back together wrong.
 
Looks at this pic and you'll see the difference. Both in first pic are drivers side mounts

Picture001.jpg


attachment.php


One thing that tx should look at, if the pass side mount has the mounts oriented the same, to the rear, swap sides. That will get them on the right orientation line.
 
No worries man, I swapped the mounts around last night after I got home...everything is gtg now. Those mounts were mirror image of each other...just swapped sides and alls well with the world...at least until we go to 3 point the setup today since the weather sucks...stupid Seattle.
 
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