No spark at plugs

No but you can plug it in and hand spin it to see if your distributor is bad

The pickup coil is not supposed to "spark."

Make absolutely sure the ECU is grounded. Don't just look at it, remove, scrape, remount, use star lock washers

Remove all connectors, the ECU, the distributor, the ballast, and "work" them in / out to scrub clean and to feel for tightness. Inspect visually for corrosion

Key on, remove dist. connector. Take the end going to the body harness and ground each of the wires. Each time you do this, one of them (forget which) should produce a spark.

"Rig" a spark gap or buy a spark tester. Crank the engine USING THE KEY. You should get nice fat sparks "in rhythm" out of the coil tower, at least 3/8" and usually 1/2" long

Check the coil wire for resistance with your multimeter.

Inspect the cap, rotor, for moisture, dirt, grease, carbon tracking, other damage. Inspect the rotor under the wiper in the center for "punch through" into the shaft

Check the pickup / reluctor for strike damage, for heavy rust, and foreign debri. Check the gap at .008" (that's inches not metric) with a brass feeler. O'Reallys did have these feelers

Hook the two distributor connector wires to your multimeter, set on low AC that's right, AC volts and crank the engine. It should generate about 1V AC

Check voltage at the coil. Coil + to ground with key on will have a low voltage, about 4-8V

Crank the engine USING THE KEY. Voltage should be "same as battery" when cranking, about 10-11V and in no case below 10V

Voltage at coil NEG with key on will be low, perhaps 1 volt, the lower the better. When cranking, the meter should jump, showing it is being switched by the ignition.