How to replace turn signal cam on 65 Dart

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jobrated_man

1965 Valiant and Dart
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I don't see how the cam with the broken ears can be safely removed from the switch without breaking it up. It has the metal collar holding the top piece cam with the lower one with the wires. Can it be separated without breaking it up? This is a manual steering, column shift, 65 Dart. I've got the new little plastic cam; hoping I don't have to buy the whole switch for $120.00.
 
The top cam is held down by the bolt to the turn signal stalk. Unscrew the bolt and pull the stalk out. You simply pry the plastic cam off the metal "nut" and press the new one on. Real simple on your 65. 67+ have 2 wires on that cam that need soldering. 70's cars had the key switch and steering lock in the column, so all that has to come out before you can even see the cam.
 
The top cam is held down by the bolt to the turn signal stalk. Unscrew the bolt and pull the stalk out. You simply pry the plastic cam off the metal "nut" and press the new one on. Real simple on your 65. 67+ have 2 wires on that cam that need soldering. 70's cars had the key switch and steering lock in the column, so all that has to come out before you can even see the cam.

Ok, Bill. thanks. I've removed the screw of course, the whole switch is here, So, you are saying I can pull that plastic cam off the metal "nut" in the center of it (the one the screw goes through, down into the lever) and just pop the new one back over it?
here's photo, of it as it stands today. Trying to get this done this weekend.
 

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So, is the cam just pressed on/over that metal bolt hole, or is the metal part spread over it, like it looks to be. ? If it is just pressed on, that would be simple to remove and replace.
 
Yes...use 2 screwdrivers to gently pry the plastic cam over the metal post. Push the new cam over the post at the center of the cam. Check operation of switch before you reinstall, just as a check.
 
Yes...use 2 screwdrivers to gently pry the plastic cam over the metal post. Push the new cam over the post at the center of the cam. Check operation of switch before you reinstall, just as a check.

Yep! Well said teacher! lol
 
Thanks guys, I was just too hesitant to take the risk of breaking it at the center point. Once I saw that the new cam hole was pretty much the same shape and size as the metal post, I went for it. good success, and now new one is installed. Seems to be all well and good. Such a simple thing, but I needed the reassurance and direction. appreciate your help, Now I've got the steering shaft out and top bearing removed, etc. will clean up the shift levers and such down below. Book says lube with short strand grease. Not sure what that is. Any ideas what to use to grease it up?
 
Thanks guys, I was just too hesitant to take the risk of breaking it at the center point. Once I saw that the new cam hole was pretty much the same shape and size as the metal post, I went for it. good success, and now new one is installed. Seems to be all well and good. Such a simple thing, but I needed the reassurance and direction. appreciate your help, Now I've got the steering shaft out and top bearing removed, etc. will clean up the shift levers and such down below. Book says lube with short strand grease. Not sure what that is. Any ideas what to use to grease it up?

Great...glad to hear you "went for it"! I've done a couple over the years, but that makes me no expert...I would use a little wheel bearing grease in those locations.
 
I think "short strand grease" means something not too thick. In the old days, wheel bearing grease was "long strand", I recall. I used bicycle bearing grease, because I have a tub, it is high quality (bikers are finicky), and it sure looks like a bicycle wheel bearing. Otherwise, moly wheel bearing grease should work fine.

I posted a few years ago the rebuild of my 65 Dart steering column so search that. I cleaned rust and painted the inside of the tube since the factory didn't paint it well. There is supposed to be a plastic seal at the bottom of the tube, but few left in any cars today. Several fixes have been posted.
 
I think "short strand grease" means something not too thick. In the old days, wheel bearing grease was "long strand", I recall. I used bicycle bearing grease, because I have a tub, it is high quality (bikers are finicky), and it sure looks like a bicycle wheel bearing. Otherwise, moly wheel bearing grease should work fine.

I posted a few years ago the rebuild of my 65 Dart steering column so search that. I cleaned rust and painted the inside of the tube since the factory didn't paint it well. There is supposed to be a plastic seal at the bottom of the tube, but few left in any cars today. Several fixes have been posted.
Bill, before I posted, I looked all over for your rebuild post, never could find it. would you have a link or direction to go for that? I'd still like to view it before I finish this up. I thank you for all the help.
dave
san diego
 
OK, next question. I am putting it all together, lubed, painted column, etc. but I find this piece on the floor. I appears to be copper, is a slightly curved strip and inch or two long, with two little nibs on it. One of the nibs, shown in the photo, had fallen out on disassembly - paid little attention to it, but this larger piece makes me wonder if it is something that belongs in the column? The little nib obviously is same size as the hole, and appears to have fallen out some time in past. Any ideas what this is from/for?
dave
 
OK, next question. I am putting it all together, lubed, painted column, etc. but I find this piece on the floor. I appears to be copper, is a slightly curved strip and inch or two long, with two little nibs on it. One of the nibs, shown in the photo, had fallen out on disassembly - paid little attention to it, but this larger piece makes me wonder if it is something that belongs in the column? The little nib obviously is same size as the hole, and appears to have fallen out some time in past. Any ideas what this is from/for?
dave

Please explain. Do you mean the spring loaded contact in the bottom of the column?
 
Forgot the photo, in quick reply. Here it shows the strip, I think it fell out after removing the bottom shift tube and lever assembly out of the column jacket. Since it is copper, it must be electrical related. Horn? nothing like that appears in any diagram of SM.
dave
 

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Please explain. Do you mean the spring loaded contact in the bottom of the column?
See the photo below my original message. The copper strip is about 1/2 inch wide and 1.5 inches long.
I don't see a contact at the bottom of column, only the selector spring against the nylon bushing at bottom, next to shift lever.
dave
 
OK, found where it should be. It belongs at top of shift tube where the shift lever end goes into the larger hole. I think the tabs or nibs are just meant to hold in place on tube. Since one is broken off, i'll try some JB Weld.
 
Heres' photo of the loose piece, and the steering tube, that It must have come loose from. Advise me if JB Weld to put it back together is not a good solution...
 

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Bill, ... would you have a link or direction to go for that? ...
See http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=140735
My 65 Dart is floor-shift so a simpler steering column.

I don't recognize the copper part that broke off on yours. I doubt that JB Weld will work, unless minimal forces, and if so it probably wouldn't have broken. Not an expert, but I think the way to attach copper to steel is by "brazing". Solder can sometimes stick to steel, but has worked for me only on galvanized steel. It appears that two flat-head screws secure the piece, so the spot brazes were probably just for initial positioning and not required to secure it.
 
Bill, I did JB Weld it together, we'll see how long it lasts. I determined that it is goes over the matching holes in steering tube, and the shift lever goes into that larger of the three holes. The smaller two holes are simply there for holding it in place, with punched copper rivets, that barely go into the hole under neath it. It all fits in a channel and slides up and down as shift lever moves. We'll see, but I think it is very low energy force on it. One of the copper rivets had broken off, and it was still working, shifting, when I took it apart. you're right, this part would only be in a column shift. I found a 64 Valiant column in wrecking yard and it told me the story. Would have used it, but the tube was about 2 inches shorter than the 65 for some reason.
 
I haven't installed it in car yet, as I am on vacation, and still have to re-build the coupler at the bottom. We'll see how it goes. I'm optimistic.
 
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