Testing a new part out for my convertible early A

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66Dvert

Working on my custom car parts again!
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Webster , florida
since I finished the 5.25 speaker in kick panels and test fitted them to my car and a couple of others(looks good! I though it was time to make some more parts. well I just made another part. even though it needs a few tweaks and size changes it does look promising as a convertible only part.
it's the top rear side panel trim plastic .. so far so good. I have to resize it up about 3 millimeters to get the trim line into correct position. and I have already stretched the back portion to make up for the fit difference (due to me not taking in the shrinkage factor (duh moment)

building the molds
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finished mold and pulled part for convertible trim panel
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pulled the part to test fit
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hmm came up short(forgot to take account of the shrinkage..oops) gotta fix that
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even the original came up short??????
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shrinkage is going to haunt me!!!! trim doesn't fit right. I'll have to adjust the mold for that.
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not too bad on the top fitment. the huge undercut need to be solved by extra help in the bending and forming stage to curl it in like the original.
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you can see how much I have to adjust and rework the mold BUT it's getting there!:rambo:
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even with the fit being off so bad for me it's still a better part than
I had. now for the fixes.

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the easy part of the fix for sizing is now on!
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as you can see it still needs work but I AM getting there.
hopefully another couple weekends and it'll be ready to go. :cheers:
1 more part down!!
 
Moving right along on these Fabricated Parts for you Valiant Vert :glasses7: Looking great :cheers:..
 
Nice fabbing work there! Ya got waaayyyy more patience then me.

thanks! making the molds are the hardest part. THEN finding your mistakes is the next hardest. Every mold or pattern maker I know still has to make changes,I just make a LOT more than they do. even using the computer to size the parts correctly does not take into account for humidity or cold.

BUT I really like the way they are coming out too!

HAH there is NO patience here. I get frustrated ALL the time. But I can't see paying an outrageous amount of money, well that and I'm broke most of the time:D (one guy on ebay wanted 400.00 for these 40+ year old plastic pieces, and they are hard to find in good shape) and I liked the option of making something myself that no one repops. I email'd one guy and he asked the same or close to it. He told me it was a "sellers market so ya gotta pay to play". NOT!!! I could see if it was a 1 of 1 rare car part but not a "it came on every convertible part" now they can EAT those 400 buck parts. I'll sell new ones of non brittle plastic. all day long at way less than half of their price just to make em eat those words and parts. plus mine will be made by ME and new!

I have just made an adjustment to the trim side of the mold to make that fit a lot closer to take up for the shrinkage(my bad , I just plain forgot I'm working with styrene instead of ABS plastic). so as soon as the mold cures a day or so I should be able to pull another test piece to check fit for our early A's.
 
I'd like to see the step by step process of building the mold then making the part.

It's interesting to see other peoples means and methods.
 
I'd like to see the step by step process of building the mold then making the part.

It's interesting to see other peoples means and methods.


let me see if I have the pictures of the kick panels as a build

let's see if this is right.


the IDEA :sign7:
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designing and making the machine do most of the grunt work.
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basic shape cut out for the speaker.
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test fit , adjust and test again. (many times.)
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don't forget to check the speaker too!
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after you like it them it's BONDO time. yep lotsa bondo!

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here I'm cutting the outside shape to a nice even slope.
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prototype done and getting readty to mount it on a backer for the vacuform.
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oops! forgot to check if it
d FIT , yup it does
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didn't like the layout it was too flimsy. soo off to the first step AGAIN and here's what I came up with
dang forgot to make locator holes so I could cut it out. fixed it!
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more to come.
 
ok more to follow


ok molds ready , check.
plastic cut to fit vacuform,check
ahhh HEAT! check



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it was cold outside too (for Florida that is in the 30's.)
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plastic mounted and waiting on me.
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dang it's dirty. forgot to clean it off .
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only need one zone for the 2'x2' platen
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slipped the mold in and raised the plastic up to the heat to soften it.
got it hot enough and down it came on the mold.
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popped the part off the mold and cooled it down
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passengers side is already cut out and drivers side is next
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and test fit again to make sure I didn't screw up.
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lotsa test fits and not too bad a setup. I probably have 70 hours total into making the 2 molds, so it's not cost effective as a production setup but it's good for a short run setup. and another couple of hours cutting them out and trimming them to look good.
then it's off to other molds of parts that no one makes. ie plastic splash shields for the 66 darts (all 4 pieces are in the works) the convertible top panels that I'm testing the drivers side on now. plus other goodies as I think of them.
it all started when I needed a way to mount my LED tail light into my housings without making any mods(still have not designed them to make a mold of.. but it's on the list!
 
The stainless trim fit may not be a problem with your molded part, but rather the trim itself. I just checked out my '64 and one side is off by about 1/8" in one area, while the other side closely follows the recess.

Might be worth looking at some other examples before blaming your mold.
 
That work is off the charts bro!!! Damn proud of you, you do outstanding work!! Thanks for sharing, still in awe!!!.....
 
Tools to make every job easier.

Now that I see the set up I understand the process.

I remember using those vacu-form machines back in middle school. They had a mold of the mascot (Ram face) and we each got to make a mask out of colored plastic.

That is a cool machine for sure. With that and the mill the sky is the limit!

Make some more stuff......
 
The stainless trim fit may not be a problem with your molded part, but rather the trim itself. I just checked out my '64 and one side is off by about 1/8" in one area, while the other side closely follows the recess.

Might be worth looking at some other examples before blaming your mold.

thanks
I've only got the one set though. hmm looks like I'll be making a trip to Waggins house since I know he's got one in the shop and one in the yard that has those panels. plus he's got a neat hidden radio mount panel in the glove box in one of the cars I want to take some measurements of for mine!
 
Tools to make every job easier.

Now that I see the set up I understand the process.

I remember using those vacu-form machines back in middle school. They had a mold of the mascot (Ram face) and we each got to make a mask out of colored plastic.

That is a cool machine for sure. With that and the mill the sky is the limit!

Make some more stuff......

oh I plan on it. I have a list!
1. kick panels for 63-66 dodge dart and valiants. (done)
2. side trim panels for convertibles of same vintage 63-66 (doing it now)
3. front and rear splash shields made from ABS for a no rust solution 63-66 (part way done) no tests yet
4. glovebox liner (believe it or not this one is harder than the kickpanels And the side panels for the convertible.) due to the deep draw it'll have to be a female mold with a plug. (tested and failed big time. that's why It has to be female mold.)
5. 2 or 3 gauge pods in the left side A pillar for my dart (boots and temp for sure) (idea stage)
6 mounting pods for my custom led tail lights in my 66 dart.(idea stage)
7. custom molded door panels for my dart since I went to power windows and don't need the holes. (idea stage, I have the basic shape molded just no way to mount it yet without making an inner ring that can be glued to it from ABS also ^&*&%^*)
8. custom console with cub holders and power outlets using the existing shifter plate. (idea stage on that too!)
so yeah there are a few things in the works.:D


I used a little one (from Matel I think and a Christmas present TOO!) as a kid. about 3 inches square.
like this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mattel-Vac-U-Form-Machine-Upgraded-Converted-/150902133596

nowadays they'd be screaming about burns and want to sue someone so it couldn't be made "SAFE" due to the dumbed down childern and their overprotective parents.
 
Well I'm a parent and I wish my kids had the chance to burn their hands and almost loose and eye like I did.........lucky for me I don't mind them learning the hard way....lol
 
Well I'm a parent and I wish my kids had the chance to burn their hands and almost loose and eye like I did.........lucky for me I don't mind them learning the hard way....lol
I wouldn't want anything to do with almost loosing an eye(way too scary for me to even think about). but small burns teach you quick NOT to touch hot stuff in a hurry, just like grabbing thing your not supposed to. like wires and such. lawn mower spark plugs teach a good lesson they arc,stings like heck but won't hurt that bad. famous words that stick in your mine "here hold this while I check it out for spark" :banghead: betcha you don't do that twice. Or the one for my grandson at his first junkyard visit. "take this bolt out pull the cable and look and see if it's a blue plastic gear" about 2 quarts of trans fluid went right into his hair.

anyway work is in progress with all the plans to get them made so
I can have new parts that fit and look like I want them too! and to sell some too!
 
You do some great work:DAny chance you,ll be doing 66 bumpers?
if I could fit the form on the vacuform then yep .. but the vacuforms too small. :D I did get some feedback about the kick panels.. seem as though the biggger alpine 2 component speakers are too deep. by about 3/4 on an inch.. sooooo gotta fix the molds to fit the deeper speakers $%^#$^#$ more work. just when i thought I had one thing finished.. any 5.25 speaker that's less than 2 inches fits perfectly . alpines seem to run deeper.
 
I love seeing your "labors of love" projects, 66! And most of your stuff will work for my 64ragtop. Other stuff keeps getting in the way, but I'll be in touch on the kicks and the new trim part.

BTW, I've seen supposed early A body glove boxes that ship flat. I guess they must fold into a useable shape?? I just don't like that idea. The ones in my '63 and both '64s are molded out of some sort of cardboard. I copy what you said about the deep draw for a mold. I've been thinking of plastic coating mine before they go back in. I've done some repairs with super glue and index cards. One piece molded ones would be much nicer!

BC
 
Yea but how do you install them if they don't collapse ?


easy. the originals slide in and have a lip that sits flat against the metal.
you can see it (the lip) in this photo then after you screw it in you have even more support than the fold-able glove boxes since the little lip is supported by the metal and not just by the screws.. I'll see if I can take a picture of my dash (since it's out of the car to install factory air (excuse the DUst I've been busy making it:D)and I have to recolor the dash pad since the top is a different color than I thought it would be.. buckskin ish color instead of the tan I wanted.%^&**$%&^

and you can see the reason it's got to be a female mold (with the male plug as a shape finisher) due to the Deep draw of the plastic. the plastic wants to stretch too much with a male mold and makes webbing at 3 of the 4 corners. I did the male mold and discovered that it wouldn't work for that reason.

lip on the edges
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better view of the deep draw(height) versus the width and length.
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first attempt for the glovebox mold making. didn't work very well. and made me realise that it had to be a female draw down mold instead of a male. now to learn how to do one of them:D
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I love seeing your "labors of love" projects, 66! And most of your stuff will work for my 64ragtop. Other stuff keeps getting in the way, but I'll be in touch on the kicks and the new trim part.

BTW, I've seen supposed early A body glove boxes that ship flat. I guess they must fold into a useable shape?? I just don't like that idea. The ones in my '63 and both '64s are molded out of some sort of cardboard. I copy what you said about the deep draw for a mold. I've been thinking of plastic coating mine before they go back in. I've done some repairs with super glue and index cards. One piece molded ones would be much nicer!

BC

thanks. I'm testing and getting feedback from all the parts I'm making right now.
it's a continual process of "hmm didn't think of that, lets see if I can do that" process or "what else can I do?". I have sold a few kick panels and they seem to be working out well. One thing though is they work with 5.25 slimline speakers 2.125 or less in depth. so if you have those monster deep component speakers like Polk audio or Alpines scr-50's(2.75" to 6") with the remote tweeter. Then these panels will not work (yet and won't be for the over 3.25 speakers at all, but the alpine 50's will be able to fit at 2.75" on the next set of molds.). a fellow member on here asked about 4" x6" speakers and I'm also looking into that(might be doable if it misses the Fresh Air Box for the early A's and not look too ugly).

the glove box is next on the list after the top rear side panel trim pieces.

as for the rear side panel trim pieces I have added some extra material on the molds back and bottom for size and trim shape fitment. I am waiting on it to out gas enough (sure does stink the first time I hit it with heat!:sad1:) so that I can test them for fit again. a couple more tests and they should be ready. plus I think I have located some smooth black plastic to use instead of the more common white styrene.

then I'll explore the ABS splash shields that I have setup for my dart. I'm hoping to use stock weather stripping for them so they are a direct replacement (we'll see if it's worth it time wise)

I have plenty of ideas,but just getting parts(and money and original mold able test parts) since it tends to be either pulls clean or it destroys the original part with no in between. the best pulls for molds of of test parts have been after I have waxed them (original parts) for 5 days straight 3 times a day to let them dry in between each coat with Carnuba wax), Expensive commercial Mold release agent hasn't works as well which was weird. finishing them is getting to be a long drawn out process.
so far each mold has averaged 12 4-5 hour days of working on it to get one good mold. BUT it's for parts that no one makes for my dart so that's OK by me!:cheers:
 
Could you melt paraffin wax and spray that on (maybe with a weed spraying tank) as a release agent?
 
Could you melt paraffin wax and spray that on (maybe with a weed spraying tank) as a release agent?


I might be able to do that but it'll change the shape slightly and on the glove box it might make a difference. I know the drivers side convertible A pillar that I have molded using dipped paraffin wax with 2 inch gauge pods came out different than the original in size and wouldn't fit. but that might have been because it was dipped. and that's another part I'd like to make Too!
 
I don't know how fiberglass mold release spray would work for you, but I used it when making fish tanks, and it's not that expensive. I bought it in quart cans and sprayed it on with a PreVal sprayer kit.
 
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