valve cover clearance

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I haven't heard of a shorter blower motor. I did see an article once on how to offset the fan inside the heater box so that the blower motor didn't stick out as far. I searched for it on the internet and couldn't find the article though.
 
Not sure how my modification will be received, but I thought it was easier than sinking the blower motor. I cut the aluminum MP valve cover where it interfered, tig welded it, sanded, polished, and painted the top street hemi orange. I'm pretty happy with it.
 

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Before paint, sorry, I couldn't add more than one pic at a time.
 

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Nice work. I don't have a rig or I would go that route
 
NICE Effin work on that modified valve cover. that looks as tho it wasn't even hacked!!!!! HELL, I'da left the damn polished cover go and not worried about the Hemi Orange paint, even tho, that looks AWESOME too!

Question, you plan to polish off the tops of the fins to make that "orange" area match the chrome areas elsewhere? OR paint just the top edges black to offset the whole look a bit?
 
67 Power Wagon said:
NICE Effin work on that modified valve cover. that looks as tho it wasn't even hacked!!!!! HELL, I'da left the damn polished cover go and not worried about the Hemi Orange paint, even tho, that looks AWESOME too!

Question, you plan to polish off the tops of the fins to make that "orange" area match the chrome areas elsewhere? OR paint just the top edges black to offset the whole look a bit?
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don`t look like it will clear alum. roller rockers that are on a 600 lft cam tho.???
 
I had the same problem so I added 1 1/2" longer bolts and spacers to the heater box and cut the heater core tubes and soldered some copper tubing to it to lengthen the inlet and outlets. Were the heater box seals to the cowl i took 2 pieces of sheet metal riveted one to the top of the heater box and the other to the cowl with the factory seal then put a bead of silicone sealer between the two pieces of sheet metal installed the hook that holds up the heater box and tightened the blower housing to the fire wall let it set. I hope this helps
 

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I brought the height of the modified part of my valve cover to stock height since I know the stock height cover clears my blower motor and doesn't interfere with my rockers. I am running a Comp cam extreme high energy .525 lift cam with adjustable rockers.
67 power wagon, I did plan to either sand off the orange paint on the fins or hand paint them black, but after finishing them orange to match my six pack air cleaner, I may just leave them. I don't want to bring any attention to the modification and I wasn't sure how to paint those fins where the height transitioned. Any thoughts?
 
ms2420 said:
I brought the height of the modified part of my valve cover to stock height since I know the stock height cover clears my blower motor and doesn't interfere with my rockers. I am running a Comp cam extreme high energy .525 lift cam with adjustable rockers.
67 power wagon, I did plan to either sand off the orange paint on the fins or hand paint them black, but after finishing them orange to match my six pack air cleaner, I may just leave them. I don't want to bring any attention to the modification and I wasn't sure how to paint those fins where the height transitioned. Any thoughts?
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2 steps forward, one step back! heater motor has to go. had to pull the pass. side valve cover, and the master cyl. to get the motor in. raised port heads flow great, but they are sure a pain in an A body. have to get an offset master cyl. adapter, and go to an aftermarket hotrod heater thats all inside. looks like there might even be trouble w/ the offsett and mopar performance valve covers!!:banghead:
 
ms2420 said:
Not sure how my modification will be received, but I thought it was easier than sinking the blower motor. I cut the aluminum MP valve cover where it interfered, tig welded it, sanded, polished, and painted the top street hemi orange. I'm pretty happy with it.
Click to expand...

WOW! WOW! WOW! That is one impressive piece of modification you got there!
 
famous bob said:
2 steps forward, one step back! heater motor has to go. had to pull the pass. side valve cover, and the master cyl. to get the motor in. raised port heads flow great, but they are sure a pain in an A body. have to get an offset master cyl. adapter, and go to an aftermarket hotrod heater thats all inside. looks like there might even be trouble w/ the offsett and mopar performance valve covers!!:banghead:
Click to expand...

would they fit with stock heads?
 
I had some old pressed tin chrome plated valve covers and just replaced them today with MP ones and found the same problem. Although I'm wondering if the whole motor is even in the right position now??
 

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Aussie,
Big Block in an A body? Yeah I bet it is in the right place, or close, loosen it to see if you have any wiggle room! It looks awful close to that brake booster too!
 
yeah, it looks about like all the others. One reason im staying with manual brakes
 
It's a lot better on the booster side, got about 9/16". But the fan motor is right up against the valave cover so it looks like I'll be pullin' the heater box out to do the fan motor mod. It doesn't need too much more clearance though. I like the valve cover mod though, nice work.
 
ms2420 said:
Before paint, sorry, I couldn't add more than one pic at a time.
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NICELY done! There's also a member here from Australia who did something similar. Nice work.
 
I spoke with one of the local mopar guys here who said when they put the triple webers on the six cylinder hemi's here, they use a fan motor out of a 68-69 VG Valiant which is an internal fan. A direct bolt in replacement as I'm led to believe. They are the aussie version of the 68-69 Dart's. What other models in the USA used an internal fan?
 
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