oil pan hitting

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68valiantbb

68valiantbb

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hello all .I have a 68 valiant with a 400 .my oil pan is hitting the center link on left turns. what is the fix for this . any help greatly appreciated .thanks
 
check for a wore out arm or sagging engine mounts,
 
mounts are new and the ft end is tight . Car came with /6 is big block pan wider i thought that might be the problem .
 
Is the pan a factory one for a BB? If so what is the number on the pan being used?
Only a couple factory pans will work as they have a recess to clear the steering linkage.
 
Ok that is the problem. it is factory but with no recess . what pan will work .part #. thanks for the help . thank you 74dart.
 
#187 or #699 from a C-Body. Idler may still contact the pan at the point circled below but can be massaged slightly. A #971 is supposed to work too but it doesn't have the notch. It may be more readily available (new?)

187%20pan%20with%20circle.jpg
 
70Duster440 said:
#187 or #699 from a C-Body. Idler may still contact the pan at the point circled below but can be massaged slightly. A #971 is supposed to work too but it doesn't have the notch. It may be more readily available (new?)

187%20pan%20with%20circle.jpg
Click to expand...
I have the 187 pan and pick up mentioned above, if you need it. also you can put 3/8" or 1/2" shims between the k frame and frame rails, will give you that amount of clearance. the factory did it on the 68 hemi superstock drag cars!-----bob
 
I got a pm from a FABO member .will try to get it in a few weeks. thanks for the help.
 
famous bob said:
I have the 187 pan and pick up mentioned above, if you need it. also you can put 3/8" or 1/2" shims between the k frame and frame rails, will give you that amount of clearance. the factory did it on the 68 hemi superstock drag cars!-----bob
Click to expand...
3/4 nuts work perfectly for that, and look nice. This lowers steering suspension in reference to the engine mounts that are hard on the frame rails. Applies a slight torsion bar load though.
 
I have this same problem, but don't see how shimming between the k-member and frame is going to stop the hit when the engine and the steering linkage are bolted to the k-member
 
Dont shim the K member down, that does nothing to help steering/oil pan clearance. Shim under the engine mount biscuits and this will fix all of it.
 
Shimming between K and frame will lower trans in the tunnel (actually raise tunnel off trans bell), gets a 727 where a 904 used to be pretty good. Shimming up the motor will kill your tunnel clearance, like it wont fit anymore. Get the C body pan with the clearance, youll be fine.
 
I don't know if this will help but is the center link straight or does it have a dip in it in the early a-body the six cylinders had a straight center link and when you do a v8 swap you need the dropped down one to clear the oil pan. Just a thought
 
I am using the DC k-member so I would have to rework the k-member to get any height off the motor or am I using the wrong idler arm ???
 

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pishta said:
3/4 nuts work perfectly for that, and look nice. This lowers steering suspension in reference to the engine mounts that are hard on the frame rails. Applies a slight torsion bar load though.
Click to expand...

The only engine mounts that are "hard" on the frame rails would be a motor plate..otherwise the mounts and steering are both bolted to the k-frame so shimming it down will do nothing except move it all...down. Get the right pan and make sure you have the V-8 center link

P.S. after looking at the pics,it appears to the V-8 center link. I would "mod" that pan with a few well placed hammer mods. Just my 2 cents
 
:violent1: The problem has been solved with just a couple of swings from my hammer

thanks fabo for all of your suggestions
 

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