Wiring harness replacement

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tekslk

tekslk

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Looks like we are gonna try to replace the wiring harness in a 73 duster with a/c. Its the dash harness. We have a replacement from another vehicle. Is this just a plug and play operation since we have a doner harness or is there something we need to no? Any tips would be appreciated. We have removed the instrument panel and glove box, along with radio, how long should we expect this to take? Thanks everyone for your imput.
 
"From another vehicle" should be from same vehicle to be plug and play.
The most common fault with this under dash harness is at the connector below steering column that attaches to ignition switch harness. Dark blue w/ white tracer feeds everything under the hood and the instrument panel at switch on.
Inspect the donor harness closely before installing.
If you find problems we can suggest methods correct them.
 
Without telling us what year and any other details about the "donor" harness, all I can say is, "Definately, maybe..."
 
I,d say tops a 2 hr job,if all is good with the donor harness.2 hrs is pulling out old one and installing the new one.
 
Mark the old one with tape "flags" so you can use it to figure out where all of the connections go while installing the "new" one.
 
Yup. There were wiring changes along the way in 70-74, so probably the BEST thing would be to pull the old one out, lay it and the "new" one out where you can stretch them out and compare connectors, colors, and actually take an ohmeter and "ohm" the thing out. This is not as big a job as it seems, especially with the factory shop manual.

The 73 diagrams are both easier and harder to follow, depending. The "easy" part is that t here's a separate index in the rear to tell you what each connector looks like and where it goes
 
Will be on it tonight probably so will see how it goes. I think the donar may be the same year. not sure if a/c or not guess lay one out and look at things, like suggested. Thanks for a start.
 
Checked tonight doner was same 73 duster we should be good gonna start tomorrow.
 
I label each connector with a silver Sharpie. If you ever want to go concours, it erases w/ ethanol on a rag. Shouldn't take long if exactly the same. Take a photo of the wiper switch connectors first, since those can be funky to hookup right, having several nested connectors.
 
tekslk said:
Well cluster harness changed, now no headlights, dash lights, turn signals flashed 3-4 times. Hm.
Click to expand...

OK first thing I'd do is find out if there's ANY power in the car anywhere. Dome lights? Turn key to "run" Gauges? Warning lights? Stop lights?

If not, get to whatever is easiest to reach, ammeter, or bulkhead connector, and see if you have power from the battery. Wiggle the bulkhead connector in / out

If not, trace the fuse link from the starter relay to the bulkhead connector and see if that has power

Now that I finally got posted where I want, LOL follow the diagram

Be careful as this also shows optional 60A alternator, which you likely do not have. I yellow dotted the wiring.

From the starter relay follow to the left to FL. This is "fuse link" This goes to circled "CE2 J" This is "J" terminal of your bulkhead connector at the bottom. From there, notice it goes right to the ammeter, through the ammeter, and follow the yellow dots up R6C-12BK (no 12 black) to the big circled dot. THIS IS the welded splice, taped up in the harness.

From there it goes several places To the left it goes to circled yellow, CE2 (P) which is terminal P of your bulkhead connector goes BACK out in the engine bay and to the big output stud on the alternator

So see if you have battery power at the alternator stud

Follow the yellow dots off to the right and to the diagram below.

On the bottom diagram, we have two yellow dotted wires. Both these came from the welded splice. Notice that one feeds the ignition switch, the other feeds headlight power to the light switch
 

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Got everything working but turn signals. They try to but don't stay blinking. I tried 3 different flashers
 
Everything great but turn signals. Power on pink wire going up to the switch but thats it if you flip the turn signal lever I get nothing on anything else, using a test light. 4 way flasher work great also. Sounds like bad switch but it worked fine till he fried the harness, could it be fried also?
 
The main dash harness was fried but the wires to the column look good. No indication of heat. Weekend is almost over, would like to finish it up today.
 
You guys really fried my brain, LOL Have you got power to the main flasher? To the column TS switch? Wiggle the 'eck out of the connector and check it

If you have power there, if you have hazards, have tried flashers, and have both brake lights, I'd be pulling the lamps apart and check lamp grounds, pigtails and bulbs

You should have THREE power sources coming to the TS switch depending

D32 coming in on a no 18 Pink is hot all the time, if the hazard flasher has power and is installed

D4 coming in on no 18 White is hot when brake pedal is pressed

D2 coming in on no 18 Red is hot anytime key is "on" with a good flasher installed. This is power coming from the TS flasher
 

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They try to blink ? Like grunt and strain ? Just kidding
Blink a few times then stop ? Stop blinking and off or steady on ?
Probably doesn't matter anyway..
We can see voltage with a simple test lamp and not have enough to run the turn signal flasher. The hazard flasher is on a different circuit so it could run fine.
 
cudacrazy67 said:
Yes the 4 ways work. So the pig tails and lights should be fine. Right.
Click to expand...


Not necessarily. Take a VERY critical view. Any of them a "little" brighter or dimmer than the others?

Check for flasher power coming in right at the column connector. Do this with key on, first left, then right selected.

Try another flasher if you have not
 
I think if it was lack of sufficient current they would flash once or twice slowly then just stand on. If there is a short they would flash rapidly until blowing a fuse. Maybe there is a problem, intermittent open at that fuse. I've seen these fuses break underneath the metal cap where it cant be seen.
 
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