How to deal with paranoia about fuel leaks

I wish I knew.
As I was posting previously I was thinking about T-bolt style clamps and how those can be had in the "Constant Tension" variety. Which does the same thing as those Mubea's in a different way. Problem is t-bolts aren't cheap and they don't come in fuel hose sizes.

Can get them in a worm-drive though and they do come in fuel hose sizes, didn't know that until just now.
Mcmaster.com page with both on it:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#constant-tension-hose-clamps/=r950ht




I still think that avoiding clamps as much as possible is the better plan. "Push-Lock" or Barb-tite" fittings are barbed fittings the DO NOT WANT A CLAMP. Let me say that again, they DO NOT NEED A CLAMP. If you put a clamp on these fittings you WILL cut the liner of the hose and cause a leak.
A tech guy with M.O.R.E. required them on the race truck that I crew for and all of the explaining in the world that they were not normal barbed fittings and that clamps made them more dangerous & sure to leak fell on deaf ears. A$$hole, open your mind. He's supposed to be making the racing safer, not more dangerous.
Anyway, what these fittings look like:


Can even get them in uber-race car anodized aluminum:


Don't look much different, but they go together a lot different. Once the hose is on you can still see the barbs bulging the hose. With the hose designed to be used with these fittings the assembly is pressure rated to the hose's own rating. In the 1/4" to 3/8" range that is 250 psi @ something like 200° to 250°F. With no clamps!!

I am using these hose ends with the SAE J30 R9 low emissivity hose on my Valiant. It is NOT the hose intended to be used with these fittings. My fuel system is set-up for TBI so I have a 15-20 psi capable pump near the tank. However, the car is currently carbed with a by-passing regulator. As that regulator doesn't seem to work quite right I see 5-9 psi in the hose between the regulator and the carb. No clamps anywhere in the system. In fact the EFI fuel pump is solely supported by the inlet and outlet hoses, with no clamps.

EDIT:
If it bugs/worries to not have clamps then you can do what I did with some of the "mission critical" fuel hoses in the dyno room and that is to put a thin tye-wrap on the hose, between the barbs and pull them up to snug, but not tight. I've also done something similar using doubled safety wire.

Second EDIT:
Found some pics of the hose on the fittings, note the bulges in the hoses caused by the barbs: