slant six starting problems

OK, please confirm that you got a good fat spark from the coil's spark wire when you manually grounded and ungrounded the coil - with the ignition on, that jumps a gap of 1/4" or more. If so, then your coil, ballast, and ignition switch are probably good. (I say 'probably' because I am not there to see it all!).

Can you explain what you mean by "Tested the ciol for voltage and got 1.4 volts AC." Do you mean the 'tested the reluctor'? Please descirbe the test and connections for this if you were testing the coil; it is not making sense to me.

One more thing to do: Did you remove the coil - wire and check it is around zero ohms end-to-end from the - terminal to the other end of that wire in the ECU connector (when it is removed from the ECU)? Also, with that wire removed from the coil - and the ECU plug disconnected, check that wire to make sure it is not grounded to chassis. You need to make sure that this wire is good and not grounded, or the ECU cannot control the coil to generate the spark. If this wires chekc good with the meter, you should then reconnect that wire end to the coil - and with the ECU connector off of the ECU, ground and unground that wire manually and see if you still get a good fat spark. Be careful to momentarily grornd this wire only! When you do this, you are simulating what the ECU does to cause the coil to generate a spark.

FYI, if the ballast gets hot when the igntion is on and with the ECU connector disconnected, then there is very likely a short in the coil - wire to the ECU.

Sent you a PM