slant six starting problems

Those voltages are low. Cranking voltage at coil + needs to be MIN of 10V that is while cranking.

Top suspects in order of "suspect" are

bulkhead connector

ignition switch connector

ignition switch

ammeter connections

internals of ammeter

welded harness splice (this is a factory welded splice in the black ammeter wire up in the harness

I thought you tried this earlier?

Take a BIG clip lead. Make one if necessary...........out of no 14 wire. Jumper from starter battery post direct to coil + terminal while cranking and see if spark "comes back" or engine will start.

Also have you checked high tension coil wire with an ohmeter?


Remove the ECU, scrape the firewall and flange clean and remount with star lock washers. The ECU MUST be grounded.

I can not remember which wire. If you ground one or t' other of the distributor connector to ECU wires, with key on, the ECU will produce a spark each time. Try each wire.

Remove all connectors, the ECU, the distributor, the ballast, and inspect visually for corrosion carefully. Work in/ out several times to scrub clean and to "feel" for tightness. Do this ESPECIALLY to the distributor

Inspect the distributor for rust, debri and strike damage. Obtain a brass feeler gauge, O'Reallys had them. Set the gap at .008", that's inches not metric. Set your meter on low AC, not DC volts and hook to the distributor connector, crank the engine. The distributor should produce 1V AC

With key on, the transistor / heat sink and coil should become warm, as should the ballast, showing they are drawing current. Voltage at coil + will be somewhat low, perhaps anywhere from 5-8V. Voltage at coil NEG will be quite low, anywhere from just above zero to 1-2V. You "would like" to see voltage at "key" side of ballast at "same as" battery, the higher the better.

Voltage at coil+ WHEN CRANKING should be close to battery, and in no case below 10V