OK; Rust-proofing/Undercoating?

Reviews seem good so I bought some of this Internal Frame coating for my Durango. The Durango was totaled prior to me using so I went ahead used it inside the rockers and cab bottom of my Ram.

I scraped all the old undercoating from my car. It was so old it was chipping in a lot of places . Used a scraper and torch . Then I used chassy coat same thing as por15 worked great , no rust and it looks good . And when all said and done I weight the tar undercoating and it was about 40 pounds lol , no joke .

peelo57 said:

I did use Dinitrol on my car. its waxy stuff that newer dries completly. i have owned this car 3 years and so far its good nice black undercoat that dont get chiped if stone hits.

Best thing about this is that it dont trap water

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Dinitrol AV25 and AV100D these are great choices, one is a liquidy spray type, the other looks and has the consistency of peanut butter.

Corban in the spray form is great too

i work with aircraft, and corrosion is obviously a bad thing to have in these. the products Peelo57 and I mentioned are great to stop this problem we use these products at my work to disperse moisture and keep a barrier between it and the painted metal frames and skins of the aircraft. the worst places for corrosion on these are the frames under the lavatory, and the frames under the galleys.

i plan on using Corban spray inside the drain holes of all the framerails after i paint the undercarriage. i also plan on using some sort of spray in bedliner on the carpet side of the floorpan. floor pans rot from the inside out. soggy carpets from leaky windows that never dry out is what causes most of this damage.

Hey moparmat2000 What is a good source for AV25 or the Corban products in small quantity? Thanks.

There are many products that have the following qualities-the color of honey, never totally dries, creeps. This is a great product because if it gets scraped it will self heal. Although I use it on my drivers I wouldn't want it on a buff only car. I did do a car for my dad that was going to be put away for a long period. That turned out to be over 23 years and the car was well protected. It was a pain to steam jenny off. The problem with a lot of undercoat is it hardens, cracks off and blocks the panel drain outlets. Rustproofing and rustioleum or por15 are completely different products and purposes.

how about primer with overspray and undercoating in the
wheel wells

years ago I used a product called "Body Schultz, its still available, you use an undercoating gun, there fore get adequate thickness, that you don't get with a spray can. ya might check it out, its used by pro shops.
like he said undercoated cars by the factory, the bottom of the car lasts lot l;onger, a fact, ..... if moisture getting on the top side of floorpans they will of course, rust from that side! yes undercoating has weight, racers burn it off just like the resto guys do so he can have a SHINY bottom on his car!????? ( then he won't drive it!?????)>>
I have had good luck with POR 15, don't like the price but the I don't like the price of epoxy primer either, but the good stuff ain't cheap!??
bottom line is anything we can do to remove, neutralize rust ( with acid or a inhibitor), prime with material that adhers, seals out moisture. gives foundation for a sealer and or apint, then we take care of the car and keep it out of rain and snow, should last many years....
we have to realize some primers , like red oxide,,, etc. don't keep out moisture. but epoxy primer is used as a sealer buy many pros. but again not cheap.... I have used oil based equipment paint, rustoleum I assume would be an example, x o rust enamel. I like Valspar oil based enamel. I've used these on inside floor pans, that I completely rid of rust, used acid or inhibitor,for that.... then enamel, now I started using sound deadner on that, works great for me... pros would clean the fllor pan, spray epoxy or self etch primer, paint over that....