69 383 Dart value ??

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dave72demon

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I'm thinking about buying a 69 Dart GTS 383, the car is a blasted shell in prime that needs a lot of metal work. it has doors,trunk lid, glass - windshield and som other misc parts. its a title, vin and build sheet non numbers match to the body .. any opinion on its value ??
 
sorry, vin tag, title, build sheet and the number on the core all match. the number on the trunk rail does not match and I don't know where the rest of the numbers are
 
Sounds like it has been re bodied. I wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole. You will end up putting a lot of $$ in it and may not be able to sell it down the road. IMO
 
If i remember the other vin no. Is generally under truck seal area??? Can vary by model? People can change the rad support from the donor and rebody it as they say... To match the vin and papework... Parts car only to me..... If ya want a clone, start with legal car, built as a clone and if ya sell tell them it is a clone.... Saves a lot of a-- kickings???
If ya want a real car the factory built, them pay the price for such a rare gem!@???? Just me...
 
could be a real car and someone swapped out the trunk area as a patch cause that is a common spot to rust... You need to inspect it further. You might get lucky and sand the primer away to see which vin # was added if they did a sloppy job welding it in.
 
look again, if it was rebodied, somebody went to the trouble of removing the radiator support. Look at the welds, most people are crappy welders, does it look original? there are two sets of numbers under the drip rail, drivers side, people sometimes mix them up, they can be close together. one is the car, another is a parts stamp that means nothing. my GTX has that as well as the vin, about six inches away.
If the car has a sway bar, 10 inch brakes, 8 3/4, and a second hangar for dual exhaust, then somebody went to a lot of trouble to clone something, or it is a GTS. Look to see if the bracket for the right exhaust was tacked on, or properly bolted on.
it takes some thorough examination to really be sure. Is the windshield and seal really old,(assuming it is in the car) The trunk lip number is the only other number that year. Does it look like someone replaced the whole Quarter? Look at the color ID on the build sheet. do you see that color anywhere inside, or left over and missed by bodywork? it can be difficult to be sure, but an experienced eye is what you need here. Match all the options you see on the car, and see if those codes are on the sheet.Buckets, floor shift, manual or power, A/C, etc. Vinyl top or no, the roof attachment to the Quarter will tell you. it is highly unlikely a thief would be able to secure a car identical in every way to switch. That build sheet has far more Info on it than a fender tag. Sorry for the long post! I hope that helps.
 
I agree the reason they used two sets of numbers on the body is in case of an accident. I would do as suggested and inspect and verify the core support was not replaced and that the quarter panel was it should be a lot easy to see that the quarter had been replaced.

Does it have any of the drivetrain? engine and trans should also have numbers on them. It should also have torque boxes in the rear at the very least.

The fact that one number doesn't match is not that surprising. If it had been hit earlier in life when quarters were not being made it would be normal to cut one off a car to replace a damaged one. The numbers from the lip would have been an after thought as they were not that valuable then.

As said verify the car against the build sheet. The color especially, traces should be found under the drip rail window seal, inside the quarters, inside against the firewall, if undercoated, scrape some off under the rocker panel. The color should match the factory color.
 
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