9" drum hub drill to BBP?

I have used the scarebird version of the adapters on a 9" hub,10"hub A-body and B-body cars . with the screw in studs (2"long worked for me on the previa rotors) there is enough meat left on the hub. (well unless you doing wheel stands daily, then I'd change them to larger ones.) but that was because I'd rather drill the hubs once and be able to take off the shelf parts and put on the car with no waiting. I know that I'll be changing to an 8.25 LBP rear end so I can have a lot more rim choices.

I have never seen a spindle break on a 9" hub but have seen the little lower ball joint bolts break from a snow slide into a curb. I went grade 8 and larger bolt size on my 9" ball joint hub setup and yeah you have to drill the holes out to accept the new bolts.
with scarebird adapter without drilling
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test fit rotor
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rotor on and drilled 5 on 4.5 (stock pattern for the previa rotors)
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! had to search for a picture of the drilled ones. It's been sitting in the garage for too long darn humidity get's in and flash rusts everything unless it's painted. #@!@#$%$ there is plenty of meat left of you use screw in studs, but it might be a bit tight if you use the knurled ones since the hole can be as big as 11/16th. the rotor is centered using an adapter ring so the rotor has a snug fit to help with the clamping force. I looked at the rotor and it's close to 1/2" thick in that area. so if you use a rim that's hub centric and it fit's tight there is a lot less chance of damaging your studs/hub/rim.
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I helped a buddy do his 9" hubs for his 440 engine'd 64 dart. with the fully tubbed rear end upgraded to a hefty 8 3/4 with really sticky tires he does yank the front wheels off the ground at almost every pass he makes at Milan dragway. he hasn't broken a spindle or (they are grade 8 bolts) lower ball joint bolts yet. he's got about 60 total passes on the car so far. he did have to re-weld he sub frame connectors twice through:glasses7: