How to start car with no key?
I have to tell you that at some point it might be better to seek local help.
Bump the engine until you can see visually that the points are open. VERIFY this by hooking a jumper wire up so that the coil is "hot wired," as discussed earlier
Then probe with a meter or lamp on the NEGATIVE coil terminal.........the side hooked to the points
You should have a bright light, or battery voltage.
Now with the engine stationary, and the points open and not moving , take either a screwdriver at the points or a second jumper wire on the coil NEGATIVE (distributor) terminal.
"Rig" your coil high tension for spark testing. Each time you ground and then UNground the coil NEG terminal, one spark should "snap."
You should see a small spark at your jumper wire in reduced light when scratching it against ground. This shows that 12V batttery power is getting to, and through the coil, and to ground.
If you have power there but no spark, the possibilities are
Bad coil wire--------try a different one
Bad condenser (the bright cylindrical "thing" inside the distributor
Bad coil
If this method DOES give you spark, RE check for spark by cranking the engine. If you get nothing, hook your test lamp to the coil NEG terminal with the coil hot wired, and bump the engine a bit at a time. The points may not be closing, or if they are PHYSICALLY closing, they might be so corroded that they are not conducting current.
This by the way IS troubleshooting 101 and has not changed since the days of the Model A Ford and before
http://www.uh.edu/engines/model-a.jpg
I have to tell you that at some point it might be better to seek local help.
Bump the engine until you can see visually that the points are open. VERIFY this by hooking a jumper wire up so that the coil is "hot wired," as discussed earlier
Then probe with a meter or lamp on the NEGATIVE coil terminal.........the side hooked to the points
You should have a bright light, or battery voltage.
Now with the engine stationary, and the points open and not moving , take either a screwdriver at the points or a second jumper wire on the coil NEGATIVE (distributor) terminal.
"Rig" your coil high tension for spark testing. Each time you ground and then UNground the coil NEG terminal, one spark should "snap."
You should see a small spark at your jumper wire in reduced light when scratching it against ground. This shows that 12V batttery power is getting to, and through the coil, and to ground.
If you have power there but no spark, the possibilities are
Bad coil wire--------try a different one
Bad condenser (the bright cylindrical "thing" inside the distributor
Bad coil
If this method DOES give you spark, RE check for spark by cranking the engine. If you get nothing, hook your test lamp to the coil NEG terminal with the coil hot wired, and bump the engine a bit at a time. The points may not be closing, or if they are PHYSICALLY closing, they might be so corroded that they are not conducting current.
This by the way IS troubleshooting 101 and has not changed since the days of the Model A Ford and before
http://www.uh.edu/engines/model-a.jpg