I have no pics, but here are some simple terms:
Looking directly at the port in normal installed position: the floor is the bottom, the walls are the sides and the roof is the top. Now flip the head on its back, with the chambers up toward you.
With the valve removed, the bowl is what you see if you look down pass the valve seat.
Doc's recommendations are what I have always done as well; I think we may have read the same books when we were kids, :)
You don't want to lower the floor, or the bottom of the runner. I have found that the most "bang for the buck" ( the most effect with the least effort and time involved) is to "blend the bowls", that is, removing the casting flash just below the valve seat ( careful not to hit your valve seats!) and grinding off the big blockey bosses that often stick down where the valves stems come through the head into the bowls. Then you can "gasket match", which is matching up the openings between your intake manifold and the head so they run directly into each other without a "step" where the two meet.
Another thing I do is to open my headers or exhaust manifold slightly larger ( about 3/32) than the exhaust port opening in order to create an anti-reversing effect, or A.R., and polish the exhaust ports. This is easy to do, since headers are usually larger than stock openings anyway.
