Headlight.........don't jumper B1-B2. The reason the factory did it that way was to provide minimal circuit protection, while MINIMIZING headlamp failure due to "other circuit" problems. If you jumper B1-B2, you will be interconnecting headlight power to the tail/ park/ inst lamp power, so if there's a short /failure in any of those circuits YOU MAY LOSE headlights, and you sure don't want that, in the dark of night "at speed."
You need to provide a fused circuit for B2, hot all the time, with a 20A fuse from the fuse panel. I would think there would be a circuit for that.
After you explained above, I threw my meter on the headlight switch so that I understood what you were saying. Then I double checked what you said against the manual. I really wish that reading schematics was as easy as you make it sound. I like to understand whats going on just so I know how these things work. With that being said I had a couple left over power wires that I didnt use on my car. I robbed the one that was suppose to be for the door locks which had a 20amp fuse and ran that to B2.
Glove box fuse..........don't know how may fuses in the panel you have. You might rob that off the dome circuit
This brings me to, the proper way to wire the glove box light and map light switch. I would like to have the map light work on my car. This is how Im reading that its wired. Power comes into one terminal on the the map light lamp, off of that same terminal it runs power up to the glove box light, the other terminal from the map light lamp then goes to one terminal on the map light switch, then out of the other terminal up to the headlight switch terminal D.
So my question is.. Im assuming that the power for the map light and glove box light is totally separate from the dome light wiring, even though it grounds itself out at the same place the dome light does? Also will the map light lamp come on when the doors are open?
IGN1 IGN2. I would be tempted to jumper it out in the engine bay as if original, in case you ever decide to run something (like the mopar breakerless) that needs a ballast
I ended up just jumpering it at the column connectore with a extra long jumper so that if need be I can cut it or re-splice it. I had the engine bay wiring done and didnt want to try to weave a new wire thru it.