360 is still running hot

inertia said
Not sure I mentioned this in the other thread,, but if your engine moves 1/2 inch forward,, you've got more than rad damage to worry about,, you've got serious body/suspension damage as well ..

IIRC the rear trans mount is "captured", meaning the steel attached to the trans will stop when it hits the steel of the crossmember.. You bend/break that,, you've hit something HARD, and the rad will be likely be the least of your worries..

As to the elec fan mounts,, how about some nice shiny aerodynamic tubing across the opening with the fan mounted to them or similar.. Just open it up,, any flat surface not directing air INTO to rad is effectively a dam,, a big dam,, blowing air sideways across the small round areas avail, causing turbulence to the air trying to enter ... the faster you go, more deflection of flow..

As a side note,, my kid drives the snot outta his Dart, and at 1/4 in clearance, the fan hasn't touched the rad yet.. if it does,, I'll buy a new rad, and prob some body/suspension parts too.. lol

And really,, when you stated the clutch fan gave 1/2" clearance,, so it'd cost you a rad if you got that 7 blade to hit the fan,, choice seems straight-forward.. jmo

hope it helps

You have some very valid points! I swapped out the aluminum water pump pulley that was about a 1/4" thick to a stock steel one. I may be able to get away with the mechanical fan again. When I pull my shroud to cut slots Im going to try to fit that back in there, just to satisfiy my curiousity

1968FormulaS340 said
You need to unblock your airflow you bought a nice big radiator then blocked 60% of it.

You need at least a 180 stat. Ignore people that tell you to run without one. Ignore the myth that a 160 stat will make your car run cooler.

The stat regulates minimum temperature. Or, look at it this way. A 160 is open at 160+ right? A 180 is open at 180+ right? At 200+ they are both open. At 200+ the engine doesn't know or care if you have a 160 or 180.

You need to be sure your lower hose is not collapsing. Bend up a coat hanger with tight coils, about 1" spacing (this is harder than it sounds and getting it in the hose can be a pain in the *** too).
You can get springs here for about $8. This is where I got mine.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/lower-radiator-hose-spring-stainless-steel-small-block-1965-1973/p/HW769/

Are you running coolant or water? Straight water will boil over at a lower temp.

Question your radiator cap. You need a good quality cap that works and is holding the correct pressure.

Yes, Im running distilled water and coolant at a 50/50 mix. As for the cap it came with the radiator, I could try a different cap, but I dont believe that is my issue. I will open up that shroud more and see what it does when I do that.

Thanks for the link on that spring. I will pick one up just to try it.