CONTROL FREAKS IFS A-Body 440 setup
Agreed!! Just a car guy looking for input! I have the motor already ( just needs build up ) so small block is out of the question. Hence my original question. Will probably do what was suggested before for all the other suspension parts plus discs all around. Since we are on suspension, what's the better size torsion bar setup? PST has 1.03 and I've seen 1.08-1.2 I think. What the most I can do? If anyone has thoughts!! Thanks again!
I have 1.12" Firm Feel torsion bars in my Challenger and in my Duster. Obviously the Duster has a higher wheel rate because the bars are shorter (300 lb/in vs 270 in the Challenger). Both cars are SB. I think the Duster rides great with them, it's definitely on the stiff side but it does quite well with the Hotchkis Fox shocks I have on it. Worked well with Bilstein RCD's as well. My Duster is a non-AC, manual steering, manual brakes car, although it is a '74 so its not the lightest version out there. And I've added some chassis stiffening as well, which is great for flex but it does add weight too.
I don't think you could go wrong with the 1.12" bars with a 440. I think that for an occasional track car that would pretty close to where you want to be. More than enough to handle well on the track, but still tolerable around town. Obviously you could go bigger, Firm Feel has a 1.18" bar also (370 lb/in), but I think the 1.12's would work just fine. The 1.18's are a pretty big step up in rate, and my car rides pretty stiff. I also run iron heads, so if you're looking at an aluminum headed 440 you won't have as much added weight vs the 340 I've got.
Note that every aspect of the suspension is addressed in 72's "package", (except sub frames and torque boxes which I'm sure he ommited by mistake). It will all work together to get you the results your after.
I didn't really leave them out by mistake, I left them out of that "package" because I just use it as a comparison against the Hotchkis TVS and RMS suspension packages. Since neither of them include any chassis stiffening, neither did I. I actually just copy and paste that section now, I have a copy on my computer that I made up with all the part #'s. It comes up enough its just easier than looking for the other times I've posted it up. And I just list it as an alternative solution, I don't sell anything. :D
That said, I think you need subframe connectors on any old Mopar you intend to drive on the street. And if you're building a car for handling, you need more than just that. My Duster has subframe connectors, torque boxes, a fully seam welded and reinforced K member, tubular radiator support, and "J" bars that tie the firewall, upper shock mounts, and front frame rails together. It's also hard to list prices and part numbers for that stuff, since I do all my own welding and fabricated some of the parts.
That's why I'm hear...knowledge. I need the knowledge to set up a good car, in my case 2 good cars!!! My biggest thing is he added the Bergman power steering box. Wasn't sure power steering would work with BB A-body due to headers. If anyone has a pic, namely 72, please post. I'm a very visual person and can get a lot accomplished through pictures...plus I'm a Marine soooooooo....nuff said!!! Lol
I don't have any pictures for you unfortunately, as all of my cars are SB. I also run a manual steering box in my Duster, Flaming river's 16:1 unit. I'd talk to Peter to find out what the options are for the Delphi box, since he's the guy at
http://bergmanautocraft.com/. He's also GmachineDartGT, already posted above.
