What Do You Think Is Causing This Leak?

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1969VADart

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So as I am taking my engine apart so that I can clean and polish it and repaint it before going in my car, I figured I would put some new gaskets in as well where there are apparently leaks or where it makes sense (oil pan, transmission pan, etc.). I really don't want to have to tear the whole front of the motor apart because the water pump was already new, but there is an obvious leak around the underside of the front. Here are a few pictures. Would appreciate some thoughts on what it might be and what gaskets should be replaced. Thanks.

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...3-414E-850F-E0BBDB88FAB4_zps3oilnat0.jpg.html

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...A-4DB6-A8B4-CD990529E582_zpsnrkcqdkq.jpg.html

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/W...C-41E1-B467-4BF6B0117746_zpsi0eht98a.jpg.html
 
At the least it's the panrail corner where it meets the timing cover.
Real common if sealer isn't used there.
 

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Since the engine is out, re-gasket the entire thing. It's WAY easier to do now then once it's back in the car.
 
The Magnum motors were redesign3ed to help try and resolve this kind of leaking. Its not the only place the LA's had issues either. Your.s is not that bad, but looks like its been going on for some time and collecting road dirt etc.

First thing I do is buy the 2 gallon jug of purple cleaner at the auto parts store, a small assortment of bristle parts brushes, a small plastic container to hold your purple cleaner and a large plastic tarp to cover your paint job. Hold it down with quality tape as best you can before starting.

Apply the purple stuff liberally, and everywhere. Get the stuff rubbed on and rinsed off before it stats to dry (about 5 minutes). Work on small areas at a time. The stuff will amaze you as to how well it cleans, but don't let it dry when its full of dirt or you will have to start over on that spot. K

eep the stuff OFF your exterior paint finish and polished or cast aluminum. You can use it on there, but was it off with in a minute or so and then wipe the aluminum down with WD-40 or similar product. Don't let it sit on porous aluminum for any length of time longer than it takes to clean it, and then either clear it or wipe it with a WDC-40 type oil. buff with a dry cloth after.

Don't work in the sun and have a water hose nearby with a good nozzle that can go from pin point jet spray to a wide flushing pattern. I clean numerous car parts and entire engine compartments with the stuff focusing on not doing too large of an area before I could physically rub the purple cleaner evenly over the painted engine compartment panels. I rinsed them well and was careful to keep any splashes rinsed off the exterior right away. The stuff is amazing, its bio degradable and it works better than anything I've ever used.

Castrol was the first out with it, and now there are many just as effective competitors.

I use plastic, rags and tape to keep water out of any parts of the engine I didn't want it to get into. I started at the top, got everything I could see and made sure I rubbed every square inch of the surfaces to be cleaned, so it would come out even. Rinse the top of thee engine good and the engine compartment and exterior of the car really good again. Use your leaf blower or air compressor to blow the water off the top of the engine to prevent pooling.

Now the fun part, jack the whole car up in the air and us four jack stands to get it as high up as you can. Do the same routine on the bottom of the car, come back a second or third time for the really built up with grease and grime areas. Keep rinsing well and work quickly.

Wear eye protection, wear rain gear ( don't, but just jump in the shower after), keep it off your skin as it can burn eventually.

The rinse everything really well again, and blow it off real good for 10 or 20 minutes. Start the car to dry the motor out. Keep checking for areas than need an extra wipe down to avoid spotting or a possible streak of the cleaner. If it does streak somewhere, re apply to that area and use a terry clothe towel to blend the area back to normal. Rinse, rinse rinse!!!

If you have hard water in your area, buy a dedicated 3+ gallon Hudson Type Sprayer, fill it with de ionized or better yet reverse osmosis water, and then use that as your final rinse. It works great when you are washing your car too. it helps get ride of the water spots. it dissolves them almost immediately.

Use a moist soft rage to wipe down smooth painted areas under the hood, valve covers and any parts that stick out visually. I did th34 bottom of my '68's hood, which had this dingy grime that nothing else would touch, and it looked like it was brand new. I did the bottom of the hood in four sections two times. It transformed my car's underhood appearance!

Just be careful about working too big of an area at a time, scrub evenly, rinse your brush with the hose when you get into a super sludgy mess and keep going.

Once you get things all cleaned up, snug all your front cover, oil pan bolts and valve cover bolts, in fact snug all your bolts. don't over tighten them. Keep an eye out for where the oil is coming from, if you still have leaks. If you find you have to change the front cover and oil pan gasket, throw in a new regular volume oil pump. Be sure to take it apart and clean it first. I've even thrown in new rod bearings when I've had the pan off. Be sure to install a new double roller timing set if you have to get in there too.

It's amazing what a little purple cleaner and a few cans of paint will do!
 

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I really don't want to have to tear the whole front of the motor apart because the water pump was already new
You don`t want to but you should.
That`s the only way to stop that leak.
When I changed the timing set on my 340 the gasket kit had 2 front oil pan seals.
One that my builder used was leaking and looked to be the better of the seals, but I found a note saying the earlier engines used the lesser looking seal, which I used and it solved that front leak.
 
I agree with pan rail seal. But I'd also check the damper to make sure there is no groove worn in to the snout going thru the seal.
 
If there is a groove, you can buy a sleeve that presses over the bad spot so the seal has a smooth surface to ride against.
 
Yup - pan's seeping. Only way to stop it is to remove it and regasket. The most critical thing I know of to stop potential leaks is good grease/oikl removing before the gasket is installed. Any oil - even from your fingers is enough to let it seep over time or possibly blow out or leak faster. Don;t over-silicone. It's as bad or worse than not cleaning the parts well. Properly assembled Mopars ar no more leaky than anything else. Most times it's installer error.
 
You also need to put sealer ON the bolts that go vertically through the bottom of the timing cover or oil will migrate up the bolts and out the bolt holes......which MAY be what's actually happening there.
 
Since it was suggested that I regasket everything, I will have to pull the pulleys and harmonic dampener off of the front, I assume? Will the pulleys not come off without removing the large nut that holds the dampener? Probably replacing all the gaskets isn't the worst thing in the world to do.
 
Not necessary unless you're going to reseal the entire timing cover and replace the front crank seal. Probably wouldn't hurt anything.
 
Will the crank pulley come off without loosening the big nut that is in the center of the harmonic balancer? I took out the six small bolts in the center, but the pulleys don't seem to want to budge.
 
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