8.75 Sure Grip axle end play - left side

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rub2stix

rub2stix

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O wise ones,

I've just installed a Sure-Grip pumpkin in my 1970 8.75 rear end. (had a non-Sure Grip before -- both are 741s) I HAVE installed the pinion thrust spacer as well. The right side axle (with the threaded adjuster) adjusts end play beautifully. The left side (no adjuster) has .070 end play. How should I correct this? I'm thinking about putting another ( .060" ) gasket between the axle and backing plate to take up that slack and put end play in the .008-.018" specification, but is the "kosher"? Or is there something I've missed?

Perplexed, I am,
JD
 
Did you follow this procedure?

Using a dial indicator mounted on the left axle and indicating on the brake backing plate, turn the adjuster clockwise until both wheel bearings are seated and there is ZERO end play in the axle shafts. Back off the adjuster counterclockwise approximately four notches to establish and axle shaft end play of .008" - .018" inch.

Tap end of left axle shaft lightly with a non metallic mallet to seat right wheel bearing and rotate axles shafts several times for a true end play reading.

Remove one retainer nut and install adjuster lock, install nut and torque to 30 -35 foot pounds.

Recheck axle end play, if it is not within tolerance of .008" - .018" repeat adjustment procedure.
 
What sure grip are we looking at here, clutch or cone?

Somethings amiss if the thrust buttons/block is installed correctly.
 
Bad Sport said:
Did you follow this procedure?

Using a dial indicator mounted on the left axle and indicating on the brake backing plate, turn the adjuster clockwise until both wheel bearings are seated and there is ZERO end play in the axle shafts. Back off the adjuster counterclockwise approximately four notches to establish and axle shaft end play of .008" - .018" inch.

Tap end of left axle shaft lightly with a non metallic mallet to seat right wheel bearing and rotate axles shafts several times for a true end play reading.

Remove one retainer nut and install adjuster lock, install nut and torque to 30 -35 foot pounds.

Recheck axle end play, if it is not within tolerance of .008" - .018" repeat adjustment procedure.
Click to expand...

I can adjust the right side as you've outlined. Did so. But it has no effect on the left side end play. No adjuster on the left side.
 
Bad Sport said:
What sure grip are we looking at here, clutch or cone?

Somethings amiss if the thrust buttons/block is installed correctly.
Click to expand...

Honestly, I don't know how to tell the difference between clutch or cone. How does it matter? The thrust buttons are the same anyway, aren't they?

Do thrust buttons come in different sizes?
Does the year of the carrier I got then make a difference? (I'm not sure what year it is)

The roll pin between the buttons can go ALL THE WAY through each of them, so they don't really set a distance between the axles; they just butt up against the carrier and take up that amount of space. Therefore, the right axle adjustment has no effect on the left axle adjustment. Could I have a wrong set of thrust buttons?

Hmmm.
 
rub2stix said:
Honestly, I don't know how to tell the difference between clutch or cone. How does it matter? The thrust buttons are the same anyway, aren't they?
Click to expand...

NO. The clutch type takes the buttons which just slip in the hole in the center.

The cone takes a thrust block, which the unit has to be disassembled to install.
 
rub2stix said:
Honestly, I don't know how to tell the difference between clutch or cone. How does it matter? The thrust buttons are the same anyway, aren't they?

Do thrust buttons come in different sizes?
Does the year of the carrier I got then make a difference? (I'm not sure what year it is)

The roll pin between the buttons can go ALL THE WAY through each of them, so they don't really set a distance between the axles; they just butt up against the carrier and take up that amount of space. Therefore, the right axle adjustment has no effect on the left axle adjustment. Could I have a wrong set of thrust buttons?

Hmmm.
Click to expand...

Because you have installed the 2 buttons and associated pin,, which type you have is obvious..

Those buttons/block don't butt the carrier,, there is space for them to float betwen the 2 axles,, so tightening up one axle, transmits thru the buttons/block to push the other axle against it bearings..

But.. if you didn't install the pin properly and peen the end over to capture the 2 buttons,, often 1 button will fall out,, and cause a "no adjustment" situation,, check both buttons are there..

hope it helps..
 
just went thru this...checked it all before assy put in new diff and dr side axle is loose even though pass side is adjusted perfectly... i had another set of axels and plopped in one of them and voila it now adjusted perfectly on both sides... i never checked the axel play before i disassembled so it may have been loose before.. but i must conclude the axel bearing is simply pressed on too far for the amount of travel the differential spacer provided..maybe the old unit had a spacer with more clearance/play [meaning it was WIDER than this one] ... but problem solved!... swap that dr axel!
 
rub2stix, when you installed the axles did you get them seated in both sets of splines on EACH side?

This might be your issue, if you're saying one side has a gap.
 
Bad Sport said:
rub2stix, when you installed the axles did you get them seated in both sets of splines on EACH side?

This might be your issue, if you're saying one side has a gap.
Click to expand...

Huh? They pushed i the way- enough to tighten the axles onto the backing plates. Wouldn't that mean they're seated?
 
OK, that's a clutch type, so you have the thrust buttons which is correct.

Now back to my question, do you have the axles set into both sets of splines on both sides? If not, they won't contact the thrust buttons, which will prevent you from setting your axle end play.

Inside the splined area where the axles go in is two sets of splines on each side. It's easy to get them in the first one, but the second can be a bit difficult if they aren't lined up.

Try gently rotating each axle and use inward pressure to see if they pop in another 1/2 inch.
 
inertia said:
Because you have installed the 2 buttons and associated pin,, which type you have is obvious..

Those buttons/block don't butt the carrier,, there is space for them to float betwen the 2 axles,, so tightening up one axle, transmits thru the buttons/block to push the other axle against it bearings..

But.. if you didn't install the pin properly and peen the end over to capture the 2 buttons,, often 1 button will fall out,, and cause a "no adjustment" situation,, check both buttons are there..

hope it helps..
Click to expand...

No thrust spacer fallout
But pushing inward on right axle has no effect on left axle.
 
rub2stix said:
Huh? They pushed i the way- enough to tighten the axles onto the backing plates. Wouldn't that mean they're seated?
Click to expand...

Not necessarily, the second set of splines isn't as wide as the outside set.


But pushing inward on right axle has no effect on left axle.
Click to expand...

This^^^^ is why I don't think they are seated, or at least one of them isn't. If they were then they would both be in contact with the thrust buttons.
 
Bad Sport said:
OK, that's a clutch type, so you have the thrust buttons which is correct.

Now back to my question, do you have the axles set into both sets of splines on both sides? If not, they won't contact the thrust buttons, which will prevent you from setting your axle end play.

Inside the splined area where the axles go in is two sets of splines on each side. It's easy to get them in the first one, but the second can be a bit difficult if they aren't lined up.

Try gently rotating each axle and use inward pressure to see if they pop in another 1/2 inch.
Click to expand...

I'll try what you say but another half inch? I'm only lacking .060 on the left side, where end play is .070. The right side adjusted fine with the adjuster nut, although it didn't seem to be pushing against the left axle.
 
Bad Sport said:
Not necessarily, the second set of splines isn't as wide as the outside set.




This^^^^ is why I don't think they are seated, or at least one of them isn't. If they were then they would both be in contact with the thrust buttons.
Click to expand...

Very good. I'll try what you say. I suppose I should run the adjuster nut on the right side all the way INWARD first to create the room, yes?
 
rub2stix said:
I'll try what you say but another half inch? I'm only lacking .060 on the left side, where end play is .070. The right side adjusted fine with the adjuster nut, although it didn't seem to be pushing against the left axle.
Click to expand...


OK, the right side adjusts both sides. Look at your bearing/axle retainers, when you put the bolts in did they have to pull it in or did they seat well against the housing/backing plate and you just tightened the nuts?

If you are saying when you push on one axle and the other doesn't move, it shouldn't. The end play is so fine your going to have a hard time detecting any movement.

Now, if you have excessive movement on one axle, then something isn't 100% seated.

When seated properly both axles will be in contact with the thrust buttons in the suregrip.
 
the splines are NOT the problem... that's about 1/2 inch or more..not .060 or so.. possibly clutch sure grips have a more narrow thrust button compared to non s/g or cone... maybe some rear end guys could enlighten.. mines fixed by swapping the axel... even reinstalled the old one once more to double triple ck and it was the same still.. find another axel
 
When you installed your axles did you tighten the left side without the adjuster then install the right side with the adjuster?
 
rub2stix said:
I'll try what you say but another half inch?
Click to expand...

I'm merely pointing out potential issues that would prevent you from getting contact between the two axles. If there is contact then setting the end play should be fairly straightforward.
 
I think you're not cranking on the adjuster enuff.. or there's a burr or something..

Do you have the proper wrench,, or are you banging on the adjuster with a hammer and screwdriver..?

Are there lots of threads still exposed from the adjuster plate/nut.. ie .. there ARE threads left to go??

Perhaps try loosening the axle retainer nuts enuff to crank a full turn on the adjuster,, then tighten the retainer back with the nuts, check backlash,, it should be less than before,, then the same proceedure till backlash is achieved..

hope it helps
 
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