Dampner out of wack
You don't "need" a degree wheel.
Here's how you use a piston stop:
Adjust or make the stop long enough that it stops the piston "down a ways" from TDC. You want a "fair amount down." imagine in your mind the crank. As the crank comes up towards TDC, the piston SLOWS DOWN, that is, the piston moves VERY little as the crank comes "up and through and over" TDC
I would want, say, "at least an inch" on each side of TDC. You regulate this with piston stop depth. You MUST figure a way to lock (nut) the plunger -- many commercial ones do not-- to keep the plunger from moving. This is IMPORTANT
Bring the piston up by rotating the engine until the no1 piston stops on the device. Make a temporary mark on the balancer carefully, accurately, under the TDC pointer on the timing "tab".
Rotate the engine backwards until the piston again stops. Make a second mark on the balancer.
"True" TDC is halfway between those two temporary marks
The further away (rotationally, or "down in the bore" from TDC that you stop the piston, the more accurate this will be, because when the piston is further down in the bore, a small change in crank rotation results in a LARGE change in piston position. When the crank throw is at 90* to the cylinder bore (about halfway through the stroke) that is when the greatest change in the piston as relates to crank rotation "happens."
If you desire to degree the balancer, you STILL DO NOT need a degree wheel. You can easily measure circumference (around) the damper, and calculate how many degrees per inch you have there. Then, just measure off that distance.
I usually measure off for 40 degrees (V8s). You MUST use a flexible tape (not dividers!!!) for this part of the job.
Once you have TDC and 40 degrees, then you can switch to dividers. Divide the 40 to 20---which you can check from both directions, IE from the TDC mark to 20, and from 40 "back to" 20.
Then you can divide in half again for 10 degree marks, etc.
This requires patience and "no beer." It's easy. Done it many many times. The "old blue" piston stop I made for SB V8s was made sometime in the 1970s
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714540100&stc=1&d=1347066506
You don't "need" a degree wheel.
Here's how you use a piston stop:
Adjust or make the stop long enough that it stops the piston "down a ways" from TDC. You want a "fair amount down." imagine in your mind the crank. As the crank comes up towards TDC, the piston SLOWS DOWN, that is, the piston moves VERY little as the crank comes "up and through and over" TDC
I would want, say, "at least an inch" on each side of TDC. You regulate this with piston stop depth. You MUST figure a way to lock (nut) the plunger -- many commercial ones do not-- to keep the plunger from moving. This is IMPORTANT
Bring the piston up by rotating the engine until the no1 piston stops on the device. Make a temporary mark on the balancer carefully, accurately, under the TDC pointer on the timing "tab".
Rotate the engine backwards until the piston again stops. Make a second mark on the balancer.
"True" TDC is halfway between those two temporary marks
The further away (rotationally, or "down in the bore" from TDC that you stop the piston, the more accurate this will be, because when the piston is further down in the bore, a small change in crank rotation results in a LARGE change in piston position. When the crank throw is at 90* to the cylinder bore (about halfway through the stroke) that is when the greatest change in the piston as relates to crank rotation "happens."
If you desire to degree the balancer, you STILL DO NOT need a degree wheel. You can easily measure circumference (around) the damper, and calculate how many degrees per inch you have there. Then, just measure off that distance.
I usually measure off for 40 degrees (V8s). You MUST use a flexible tape (not dividers!!!) for this part of the job.
Once you have TDC and 40 degrees, then you can switch to dividers. Divide the 40 to 20---which you can check from both directions, IE from the TDC mark to 20, and from 40 "back to" 20.
Then you can divide in half again for 10 degree marks, etc.
This requires patience and "no beer." It's easy. Done it many many times. The "old blue" piston stop I made for SB V8s was made sometime in the 1970s
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714540100&stc=1&d=1347066506
