Still trying to map out a timing curve

I believe you are making things more complicated than need be. If your timing is 'locked' like you say, there is NO ADVANCE CURVE. If your timing was locked, the car would start and idle at 36 degrees and stay at 36 through whatever rpm you go to. When you have the start up timing at 11, idle at 19 then 'ramp up' to 36 at 4,000, THAT by definition is an advance curve.

Like I said previously and what Louis has corroborated, your initial timing should be at least 20, probably 22-24. Forget about start retard. You may have to experiment with how much initial can be tolerated before the starter kicks back, if it does at all.

Again, the general idea is to run as much initial as you can and limit mechanical to arrive at your total. Once you get your initial dialed in, focus on getting the remainder of the timing all in by 2,000 rpm because 4,000 rpm is 10 years too late. Those two ideas are really all you should be concerned with.

I think the fancy programmable gadgetry is adding unnecessary complexity. You got your total advance number, all you have to do is figure out how quick to arrive at it and how far you need to go from your initial.

You aren't understanding the situation. Yes, the distributor never turns for advance. Yes, it is locked in at 36 degrees. The MSD box retards the timing to whatever I program it to be at ignition on. Therefore, I am not at 36 degrees at start up. I have set it for 11 degrees at start up, 19 at idle and 36 all in. I'm glad for the help, but the fancy programmable gadgetry is what will help me get the most from my motor. There are those who thought electronic ignition was un unnecessary complexity, but we have learned otherwise.