1972 Plymouth Duster Alignment failure

Yes there is a recent thread on that here....I used some 2-3" pieces of 1.5" OD, .095 wall tubing and some simple long threaded rods and nuts and washers. Any pipe/tube will do.

For the center link, inspection is the first step. If all the tapered holes are good and the unit is staight, then there is no reason to not re-use it. Since the car is not driveable, you can take that out now and inspect and put back in with finger tight nuts on the studs for moving the car around. The big thing I would look for it the hole in which the idler arm is now connected; the idler's stud and center link taper look to be reversed and if the goon who did this drew it down really tight trying to make it work, then the taper in the center lnk may be 'moooshed' out at the narrow end, If this 'moosh'/damage only extends down maybe 1/8" then OK, but sometimes people/idiots will drill/ream/file these tapers when they mess this up; the tpaers have to be right, or they will never hold and be unsafe.

The joints in the pitman arm and idler arm are wear items, so yes, I would save for those. The pitman arm only has one joint so it can be inspected and if tight, then it is OK.

Tie rod end stuff is easy and the adjusting links between the tie rod ends can be reused if straight and have reasonably clean threads.

The boots on the upper BJ's look intact and just need to be seated when they are off the car. Since the boots are loose, you can inspect to see if the upper BJ's were installed right. If pressed in (wrong), then there would be vertical scoring marks on the BJ's metal body that protrudes out below the upper control arm. These probably were done right but I just would not take any chances and just make sure.

The lower BJ boot...maybe someone has one used and intact laying about; I would send you one but they are all trash. No new upper or lower BJ's should be needed so those $$ are not wasted. The upper control arm bushings cost only a few $$ each.

Did you ever get an answer from the shop if they tightened the lower control arm shaft into the K member when it was up in the air (wrong) or down on the ground with weight on the wheels? If tightened up with the car in the air, they may be damaged now. If you inspect up on the front sides of the LCA bushing, see if there are any new, loose, torn bits of rubber hang out. The other possible check is when you remove the LCA's when you take the K -member out; raise the car and mark the end of the shafts and then slowly loosen the nuts on these LCA shafts; if they were tightened properly (with the car on the ground and load on the wheels) then the shafts may rotate a bit on their own as you loosen the nuts; this is the normal bushing rubber tension being released.