2 bolt M/C ?

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gerty

gerty

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I'm replacing the whole brake system on my '74 Duster and remembered having a new 2 bolt M/C for an '86 D150 pick up. I never got around to installing it on that truck so I'm thinking about using it on the Duster. The truck had power brakes and the Duster is non power disks. A buddy gave me an adapter so I just need the M/C. Would this be a good M/C for this swap?
Bob
 
2 bolt m/c is made for disk.

Does your Duster have disks?
 
I did this on my 68 cuda with an AR adaptor plate. Originally used a MC that I bought from Auto Zone. had them bring out every one they had in stock. I was looking for the counterbore in the back of the piston to retain the manual pushrod. Can't remember what car it was originally for but it had a 1-1/8" diameter bore. I didn't like the feel as it was a very hard pedal w/o power boost. If I wasn't paying attention the car would sometimes creep forward at a traffic light.

One thing to look for is if the reservoir mounts on an angle. I think maybe the truck ones may have that angled reservoir. The one I bought came w/o a reservoir. Luckily I had a junk one with a level reservoir that directly swapped on.

Within a year I found a used original Direct Connection aluminum MC that I bought from a racer. This one has a 1-1/32" bore. Much better feel for me, but for my money, the 7/8" bore as used on the 73-76 Power brake cars gives the best feel run manually.
 
Some Aspens and Volares had manual disc brakes and the aluminum 2-bolt master cylinder number used by Cardone & others is 10-1821 for those applications. I have that on my race car and it works fine at the track with the OEM combo. I have the original proportioning valve as well. Not sure how it would be in every day street driving. Power brake application has a different #.

Your full size truck M/C may require a higher pedal effort (bigger bore) and I don't know if your # is for a manual or power application.

The slanted M/C may be from FWD cars and/or Dodge Dakotas. They would have a smaller bore and I've heard some people say that the FWD versions are not recommended for RWD conversions. You can use the larger capacity reservoir from full size truck/van applications on the passenger car M/C by trimming some of the tabs underneath the plastic body which are in the way when you try to use it on a non-original M/C application. They both have "straight" tops. Just the truck version is bigger than the car version.
 
Other than weight, I have witnessed no advantage over a factory disc MC.
 
I plan on using one from an f body "Volare", which was recommended by Dr. Diff.
Bob
 
Disk or drum MC type doesn't matter. All that matters is the bore size, and that it has the correct manual brake rod (rubber bushing on tip so rod doesn't pop out). Most like 7/8"D or 15/16"D for manual brakes, depending on how thick your thigh is and if your girl will drive the car. I like 7/8"D and get minimal pedal movement even with DOT5 fluid.
 
I've got a 2 bolt, 1 1/32" MC off of a Diplomat on my Dart. I've got KH on the front and 10" drums on the rear with an adjustable rod. If I were to do it again, I'd probably go for a smaller bore like 15/16".
 
MuuMuu101 said:
I've got a 2 bolt, 1 1/32" MC off of a Diplomat on my Dart. I've got KH on the front and 10" drums on the rear with an adjustable rod. If I were to do it again, I'd probably go for a smaller bore like 15/16".
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haven`t been out of the garage yet,but used a new one from an 85 chrysler-or diplomat, pedal feel ifs great!--------bob
 
famous bob said:
haven`t been out of the garage yet,but used a new one from an 85 chrysler-or diplomat, pedal feel ifs great!--------bob
Click to expand...

I also think part of what attributes to mine is I need to adjust the pedal height (too high for my liking) and I'm not a fan of my pads.
 
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