new member with 74 dodge dart starter problems
Disagree completely It can be many other causes other than a bad box.
1....It is NOT the seat belt interlock. This disables the starter. However if you have not done so, bypass the reset box, here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1969624169
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=14304
2.....Before you do anything else, make ABSOLUTELY certain the ignition ECU is GROUNDED. Remove the box, scrape the firewall and box ears clean and mount tight with star lock washers
3.....Remove all ignition connectors........at the box, at the ballast resistor, and the distributor, and 'work' them in / out several times to scrub clean and to "feel" for tightness. this is especially important with the distributor
4.....You have a meter? I do hope so. Clip the meter to coil + and turn on the key. What does it read? Should read somewhere between 6 and 10 volts.
Read voltage from coil NEG to ground. This voltage should be quite low, perhaps only 1/2 volt or 1 volt
5.....With meter clipped to coil+ terminal CRANK the engine USING THE KEY. The voltage at the coil should be within a couple of tenths of a volt "same as" cranking battery voltage, AND should be a bare minimum of 10V or higher.
6....Get a jumper clip. Turn the key to "run." Ground one end of the jumper. Take the distributor harness connector at the ENGINE bay end (not the distributor) and ground first one wire, and then the other (because I forget which, LOL). One of the two should give you one spark out of the coil each time you ground it
7...Set your meter on low AC volts. That is correct. AC volts. Hook the probes to the distributor connector terminals, the DISTRIBUTOR end. Might need two people. Crank the engine. Distributor trigger should produce about 1V AC
8....Pull the cap. Inspect the cap and rotor carefully for excessive dirt, grease, carbon or metal tracking and moisture. Inspect the rotor for "punch through" (spark punching through the center.)
Inspect the reluctor and pickup coil for rust, strike damage or debri. Give a cursory wiggle to the shaft and try to see if there's excessive shaft play (bushing wear.)
Additionally, if this is the older 5 pin box with a 4 pin resistor, you need to see if the resistor is good on "both halves."
Here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
Basic wiring diagram of the older 5 pin box
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Ignition_System_5pin.jpg
Basic wiring diagram of the newer 4 pin box. Notice that quite simply the wire going to the box from the "other half" of the resistor was eliminated
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Ignition_System_4pin.jpg
And.........checking ballast resistors
NOTICE that the 2 pin resistor is the SAME on the side of the 4 pin which connects to the COIL
Disagree completely It can be many other causes other than a bad box.
1....It is NOT the seat belt interlock. This disables the starter. However if you have not done so, bypass the reset box, here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1969624169
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=14304
2.....Before you do anything else, make ABSOLUTELY certain the ignition ECU is GROUNDED. Remove the box, scrape the firewall and box ears clean and mount tight with star lock washers
3.....Remove all ignition connectors........at the box, at the ballast resistor, and the distributor, and 'work' them in / out several times to scrub clean and to "feel" for tightness. this is especially important with the distributor
4.....You have a meter? I do hope so. Clip the meter to coil + and turn on the key. What does it read? Should read somewhere between 6 and 10 volts.
Read voltage from coil NEG to ground. This voltage should be quite low, perhaps only 1/2 volt or 1 volt
5.....With meter clipped to coil+ terminal CRANK the engine USING THE KEY. The voltage at the coil should be within a couple of tenths of a volt "same as" cranking battery voltage, AND should be a bare minimum of 10V or higher.
6....Get a jumper clip. Turn the key to "run." Ground one end of the jumper. Take the distributor harness connector at the ENGINE bay end (not the distributor) and ground first one wire, and then the other (because I forget which, LOL). One of the two should give you one spark out of the coil each time you ground it
7...Set your meter on low AC volts. That is correct. AC volts. Hook the probes to the distributor connector terminals, the DISTRIBUTOR end. Might need two people. Crank the engine. Distributor trigger should produce about 1V AC
8....Pull the cap. Inspect the cap and rotor carefully for excessive dirt, grease, carbon or metal tracking and moisture. Inspect the rotor for "punch through" (spark punching through the center.)
Inspect the reluctor and pickup coil for rust, strike damage or debri. Give a cursory wiggle to the shaft and try to see if there's excessive shaft play (bushing wear.)
Additionally, if this is the older 5 pin box with a 4 pin resistor, you need to see if the resistor is good on "both halves."
Here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
Basic wiring diagram of the older 5 pin box
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Ignition_System_5pin.jpg
Basic wiring diagram of the newer 4 pin box. Notice that quite simply the wire going to the box from the "other half" of the resistor was eliminated
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Ignition_System_4pin.jpg
And.........checking ballast resistors
NOTICE that the 2 pin resistor is the SAME on the side of the 4 pin which connects to the COIL
