Faulty battery, bad alternator, or both (photos)

Ok – I had some time to try and get this sorted out.

Remember: I was not getting continuity in the 12g Black wire from the dash side ignition harness.

Before pulling the cluster, I checked continuity on the 12g Black wire and got nothing. No light.

I dropped the column, pulled the cluster, unwrapped the tape and inspected the wires in the harness.

I remember someone mentioning that a screw that holds the cluster in place, pierced their wires so, I decided to check for this.
I removed the screws, re-checked continuity, and had a light! It wasn’t as bright as the others, so I knew I still had work to do…

I first found the welded splice for the ammeter feed and that looked/tested ok. Taped it back up.

I then found the 2nd welded splice, which my 12g Black ignition wire is part of.
It was spliced to a 12g Pink wire that goes to the wiper switch. That was ok, although the connection at the wiper switch was a little loose. I taped it back up and fixed the connection at the switch.

I checked the ohms in this particular circuit since it only seems to go 2 places (ignition switch to wiper switch and fuse box).

1. Ignition connector (12g Black wire) to Fuse box – result: .001 Ω
2. Ignition connector (12g Black wire) to connection at wiper switch (12g Pink wire) – result: .001 Ω

At this point here is the only thing I can think of what’s going on:

A. The black or pink wire was pierced by the mounting screw for the cluster.
B. There is still a loose connection SOMEWHERE in the bulkhead connector. I studied the wiring diagram and the 12g Black wire for the ignition does not go to the bulkhead connector. It only goes to the wiper switch and the fuse box. Could this wire be inline with another one I'm just not seeing?


I’m ready to button this all up and start re-testing, either with the headlight and/or the inline fuse test methods.

What are your thoughts?