Removal of dash now car will not start

Bolt the large red and black ammeter wires together and tape them off. THEY ARE NOT FUSED. Shorting these will guaranteed result in smokage, meltage, and a large EPA superfund cleanupage

One of the very first thing you should do is visit this thread:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617

and here

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

to download a free factory service manual and other technical information

At MyMopar, there are factory parts catalogs for some years

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=107

and also at that site, are simplified wiring diagrams. These are sometimes incorrect, and sometimes not complete (not all options and not all connectors) but they ARE sometimes easier to follow

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18

One thing that IS a little difficult is the special wiring for things like the Barracuda Ralley dash cluster. I believe one of our members on here has that. the really big difference in your cluster and "non" Ralley clusters is that you have an oil gauge, and that the gauge instrument limiter device is built into the fuel gauge.

As always, my advice is to read this article. It points up some of the problems and pitfalls with these old girls wiring

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml

The really really big thing in the case of an otherwise stock car and harness is condition of the connectors and switches. Bulkhead connector, the connections and the ammeter, the ignition switch connector and switch, and the headlight connector and switch, and dimmer switch and connector are the "biggies."