Advance Plate
Oh no--:banghead: :D
The biggest confusion for me has been the crank degree deal.. Out of all of the threads I have read, I don't recall that being thrown out there. It probably was but I missed it.
I have no idea why, but timing just somehow confuses the bologna out of me, I understand the basics but it's the total picture that gets me.
As I mentioned before, I took 125 thou out of the mechanical slots to limit the amount of advance it added to the initial. (for my total) without vacuum advance connected.
Now I had about 14 intial and a mechanical of about 12 with one light spring for the total to come in at around 2500 and I thought "ok i'll have to go back in and grind out some of the slot to add more mechanical timing to end up with somewhere around 32-34 total.
Sounds good so far in theory, right?
I decided to drive it first and use my tried and true "by ear" method and see what happens.
I advanced the distributor till I got pinging at WOT, then backed it off about 2 degrees and it still seemed to run and start great.
Back home again I put the light on it and checked it and it had about 13 initial, full advance came in at about 2500 and total was 26 ???????? WTH?
Any more advance I get preignition at WOT, and I can't tell that the spring change made any difference at all either.
Any more initial and I go over 26 total and get ping.
Any less initial and it brings the total down to far.
At this point I said screw it, sombody is lying here and as long as I don't have WOT ping I going to leave till the new engine goes in.
Totally sideways huh?
I went over it with another trusted member here on the phone and in the end we both kinda threw up our hands and decided if it runs good to ignore the reason why it shouldn't. :-)
