SuperStock spring tips.

The drawing shows it as he said it. The other way and there's little slack left and the body can't rise. Physics and geometry.

FWIW below is essentially a repost from another thread on snubbers and SS springs.
At my first job I worked with a technician who had been an old school racer - stock class racing. His own car was a red '67 GTX and became just a time trial and bracket car for fun. The snubber was just touching the floor - no gap - no delay - no slap. He had also removed the clamps from the rear halfs. Maybe you don't have to do that in your case. I'm not here to argue.

His son caught a B&W photo of the car at launch. You could see the back springs open, and the front wheels just off the ground maybe 6". The body looked almost parallel to the ground. Tires were 10" slicks IIRC, cetainly nothing wider.

He was one of my first mentors in this hobby and went with me to the track a bunch of times, along with one of my other coworkers. I saw the car, a '67 GTX with full interior etc. He had finally broken the axles and was going to have to either put a roll bar in or run slower to be allowed on a track again.

The GTX had torqueflite, mvb with reverse patten and column set up to slap. Funny I never noticed any advice not run a snubber on automatics in the Chassis book. I will say on my own car there were times that even for autocross I had to have the snubber touching to prevent spring windup. That was not the best solution but an expedient until I could change springs and hangers. For autocross and road racing I haven't used the SS springs but E-berg used a dearched set on the green brick.