55* total timing? WTH?
what don`t u like about it ?
Read what it says. Then go look up some of crackedbacks posts, and the one I posted earlier which came from a magazine article via AbodyJoe
I quoted the first part of the "procedure" and no where does it explain WHERE you set timing to obtain what you want.........Read what I quoted........Does it make sense?
Now I removed extra wording before and after, but at no point did I remove any PART OF the so called procedure pertaining to setting idle. It doesn't tell you how to DETERMINE idle (initial) timing, only how to CHECK idle (initial) timing
1......You determine what the engine likes for idle. You do this with a vacuum gauge I already posted this earlier. You adjust for max idle RPM and vacuum, and "be ready" to back it off (retard) a "few" degrees. You check when the engine is hot and make sure it does not kick the starter. You make sure it does not "ping" at low speed, wide throttle settings
2.....You determine the best setting for WOT power, vacuum disconnected With mechanical at "full advance." On a factory dist. you may have to pull out the "overload spring" to make certain it's "all advanced." You want to "look" for WOT ping, and max HP. A dyno is "handy," a G-tech is useful and cheaper, especially if you buy one used
http://www.gtechpro.com/
3.....THEN You recurve the distributor to connect 1 and 2, then diddle with springs to make it happen when (RPM) it likes. A litt'le bit 'o a note on this........If you have more than 20-22 crank degrees into the distributor, and stock springs, this 'hain't a gonna work. And "the books" print "distributor degrees" which means you need 10-12 degrees "in the distributor"
4.....Last you add the vacuum on for low throttle cruise. This can be another "diddle." (EDIT MISPRINT LOL) NOT ALL carbs "port" the same, and you need to be sure that vacuum doesn't kick in too quick at part throttle and cause more mid-range "ping." I used to have trouble with this EG Quadrajunk on a 340 in my old FJ-40