'67 273 valve oil seal replacement

Update:

After a rainy weather period, I'm back to driving this car, so I'll see if the oil consumption has dropped- 75 miles so far. After the valve oil seal job, I did a preliminary valve lash adjustment (cold) with a little extra clearance over factory spec to account for thermal expansion. After some driving, I'll expect all the parts I removed/reinstalled have fully re-seated and I'll do a proper hot lash adjustment (hoping for a cool weather spell for that project).

I adjusted intake valves to 0.016" and exhaust to 0.025", all cold, as this is the gap I found on most intake and exhaust valves upon initial inspection. I found two exhaust valves with a gap greater than 0.030" and one intake less than 0.013", adjusted those to the values above. After a little driving, I'll check those measurements and readjust to the 0.015" and 0.023" cold lash that would be recommended prior to a hot lash adjustment of 0.013" and 0.021", respectively.

In addition to the oil seal replacement and lash adjustment, I used Seafoam spray to de-carbon the engine. The smoke clouds behind the car were impressive, however brief. The car is running as well as ever right now, look forward to how it runs after the final hot lash adjustment.

Thanks to some other recommendations on this forum, I bought a NAPA Echelin ignition control module (ECH TP51, made in China) and coil resistor (ICR23) to carry as spares for the orange MOPAR module and resistor I've used for the past many years. Pulling the original distributor and replacing with a MOPAR electronic distributor and ignition system is one of the best things I ever did with this car!

NAPA also had the best tappet feeler gauge set I've been able to find, with long, bent feelers from 0.005" to 0.030" in increments of 0.001". Bought one, oiled the gauges. Maybe I'll finally stop burning my hands on the exhaust manifold.

This car has an aftermarket A/C system, already installed when I bought it in 1974. Still works after all this time, only had to replace the idler pulley twice and plenty of refrigerant stockpiled. thinking of removing it, as it has to be moved to remove driver-side valve cover, it's held on with water pump bolts, I hate the leaks I get doing a lash adjustment. OTOH, working A/C nearly as old as the car...maybe I'll just get shorter bolts to temporarily stop the WP leaks.