Heat riser stuck

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1930

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I spent a good hour unsticking this riser this A.M but the weight came off easily/accidentally when I first embarked on the mission of freeing it.

Is there a special way it would go on? At this point I have knurled the shaft pretty good with the vice grips so Im thinking once I get it on it prob will stay on and I doubt it will spin on the shaft easily but Id guess that there is supposed to be a certain amount of spring tension it has to have.

Also what do you guys suggest to keep this thing free?

Year of engine is still un-known at this point. Replacement solid lifter engine in a 73 truck is all I know at this point.
 

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I can tell you that the spring on the puck is supposed to release and open the butterfly valve as it gets hot so yes, it goes on the shaft a cetain way.
 
Yeah I kinda figured it would have too, maybe someone will come long thats fooled with this. Thanks
 
Kinda not hard to figure out, really. Install it so that the spring tension just barely does make the valve shut. Done.
 
Just a suggestion..
properly position / toss the spring and weight
in glove box
in trunk
out of sight, out of mind.
Set the baffle in open position and forget it.
 
Yeah I kinda figured it would have too, maybe someone will come long thats fooled with this. Thanks

I have fooled with them, and your best suggestion so far is what Redfish said.
Put the shaft in the open position and let it go.

Otherwise you'll be looking for another manifold.

Also there is the possibility of heat expanding and contracting those parts and the weight falling off going down the road.
 
Please fix that fuel leak before it catches on fire!:violent2:
I am working on that also. I have asked over on the .org forum how to repair a warped float bowl, nothing yet but maybe someone over here has had success. I will post a picture in a bit.
 
Chrysler dealers used to carry a special solvent to use periodically on the heat riser shaft to keep it free, according to the manual, but I have never seen it. I will probably try fireplace window cleaner (Ace Hardware) when I start driving my A's regularly.
 
Chrysler dealers used to carry a special solvent to use periodically on the heat riser shaft to keep it free, according to the manual, but I have never seen it. I will probably try fireplace window cleaner (Ace Hardware) when I start driving my A's regularly.
Thanks Bill I bought a couple of cans of
Mopar MP-50 MP50

From E-bay, there was an older formula that has been recommended in the past but for our protection it evidently is no longer avail. This is what replaced it Ive been told.
 
Anti seize compound works great too. It will withstand 2K degrees.
 
Anti seize compound works great too. It will withstand 2K degrees.
How it it avail, I have the brush on but in order for this to work I would need to get in between the shaft and the bushing. Never heard of a spray formula that can withstand high temps.
 
How it it avail, I have the brush on but in order for this to work I would need to get in between the shaft and the bushing. Never heard of a spray formula that can withstand high temps.

To use anti seize, you have to disassemble it.
 
Really? Wow somebody had to do that. They are just pressed together from the factory.
 
Really? Wow somebody had to do that. They are just pressed together from the factory.
I have 6 manifolds now that I have collected, ( all off different vehicles at different times ) they are all removed from late model slant engines, they are all welded identical to one another. Clean weld, factory.

I know this cause I have had to compare them since I am having issues with a manifold on one of my running vehicles and I thought about just replacing the moving parts.

I can get a picture if you would like.
 
I have 6 manifolds now that I have collected, ( all off different vehicles at different times ) they are all removed from late model slant engines, they are all welded identical to one another. Clean weld, factory.

I know this cause I have had to compare them since I am having issues with a manifold on one of my running vehicles and I thought about just replacing the moving parts.

I can get a picture if you would like.

I think RRR was talking about the weighted wheel instead of the vane.
 
I think RRR was talking about the weighted wheel instead of the vane.

I was. But even with the welded type, what's to stop you from grinding the weld loose, making the repair and putting it back together and rewelding it? I mean really. This is a damn heat riser we're talkin about. What happens when you run into a real problem?
 
The purpose of the heat riser is to help a cold motor heat up. In Florida where you live, the heat riser would hardly ever operate, if at all. Motors get up to operating temperature quite quickly. Up here where winter temperatures are substantially below freezing, the heat riser operates regularly. Unlike you, I've found very few seized heat risers. If it's seized, it'll be seized open. For all the good it will do, you're better off just leaving it be.
 
Not if it has sat up. I have seen several seized closed. That's the "default" position when the car is static and not running. I do agree though that in warmer climates they really are not necessary.
 
Graphite lube works great on those things. If you can live with the rattle, I'd agree with the folks suggesting you just leave the weight and spring off. If you feel you need to put it back on, then follow the suggestion to wrap the spring only enough to close the heat riser when cold, any more will cause the heat riser to stay closed too long.
 
I was. But even with the welded type, what's to stop you from grinding the weld loose, making the repair and putting it back together and rewelding it? I mean really. This is a damn heat riser we're talkin about. What happens when you run into a real problem?
Cutting the weld loose is not an issue, remember I am the one that suggested that it would have to be done in the first place. I never said it was a major problem but I would prefer not to pull the manifolds cause then I am opening a whole nother can of worms so I was looking for suggestions on making the repair on vehicle.
I take care of real problems when real problems come up and that never means running to an on-line forum to ask people for their advice on what I should do.
 
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