Fatter wiring

Some after-market kits bolt Vreg to the backside of the alternator. In my small block engine, I ran a 12 awg IGN wire to the alternator field+ (across timing cover), so use that for Vreg "sense" as well (neligible voltage drop). It comes from a relay in the box, actuated by IGN1 (& IGN2 jumpered at key) thru the firewall.

My slant engine is similar, but I run IGN across the radiator support to a terminal block on the passenger inner fender, where I also need it for HEI ignition. Still in-work.

The only wires that normally melt the bulkhead are the large ALT and BAT terminals. The others just mess up that circuit when the resistance is too high (dim headlamps, weak spark). 63 & 65 cars are fairly immune to bulkhead melting since Chrysler was smart enough to use big buss bars for ALT & BAT, as are taxis and police with "fleet wiring".

I made no drawing of the shunt bypass. In my small block I used smaller diodes soldered together, that I clamped to my Battery Brain. In my slant, I will use the big diodes I found later that are simpler and more robust. You can put the diodes at either ALT or BAT ends, or even in the middle of the run. But, they must have a good heat sink (P=i*dV, could be 100W w/ 100A alternator) and they can't touch ground. Perhaps right at the BAT+ post would work. BAT+ is also at the big starter relay stud (gone in my cars).