1965 valiant gauge cluster...again

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nashvegas99

nashvegas99

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Is there another way to ground the cluster in the dash. Also, on the starter solenoid there is a thick blue wire that has a rubber tag on it saying "fuseable link". First, where is he fuseable link at? Second, when i check voltage on the end that is connected to the bulkhead connector, there is no juice. Is the rubber tag the fuse and could it be "blown" inside causing issues?
 
Fusible links have a higher temp rubber casing and ID tag molded on. They will burn open inside with no evidence outside.
 
I have replaced all 6 bulbs and nothing. Turn signal bulb works, but no lights in cluster. Fuel gauge works. Temp gauge is on going battle (other post in generel discussions).
 
If there is power at the relay side where it is hooked and no power through it to the bulkhead connector the fuse link inside is probably burnt. You can pick up a new universal link wire at Napa or other good parts store. Keep the replacement close to the same length. At work we have it on a roll just cut to length.
 
So for my own fyi, what is powered by the fuseable link after it connects to the bulkhead connector
 
The wire itself is a fusible link. Don't repalce it with a fuse unless you want no end of troubles; a fuse OK ONLY for temporary troubleshooting but you need to get a replacement fusible link.

If the dark blue wire with the fusible link tag has no juice at the end going into the bulkhead connector, then the whole car should be dead. So there must be some jury-rigged wiring around this into the dash if you are getting anything to work at all. That dark blue wire is the main power feed wire in and out of the car, and should have 12v on it all the time. Sounds like you need to start finding what is wired where.....

Do you have a wiring diagram? If not, please download one from mymopar.com . The fusible link is marked right on the diagram.
 
OK lets assume you have verified the positive supply to the illumination bulbs from the headlight switch. Every lamp socket has contacts and tiny tangs that hold them in place and against the boards contacts. All this needs to be clean.
Most everything on the instrument panel requires a chassis ground path. Therefore if some of it works chassis ground may or may not be the problem. Almost every lamp position on the board has a small screw beside it. That screw and the little washer on it is part of the ground path. If the little washer and the copper its sitting on is corroded the lamp or lamps depending on that connection will be dim or totally inop.
 
Little washer... There are no little washers. Screws only into the board. Wipers work, car starts/runs, dome light works, headlights work, radio works, heater works, fuel gauge works, alt gauge works, temp gauge is burned out, turn signals work and indicator bulb works...i despise electrical issues becuase i sux at trying to find and fix.
 
Does sound like the dimmer portion of the headlight switch is the problem.
Not every model is the same. Earlier may not have had the kep washers on those board screws. Adding internal toothed washers to what you have couldn't hurt.
 
Thnx redfish, i guess ill take out the headlight switch to see if i can maybe clean the reostat or see if something is obvious. Is there a way to bypass the reostat and give the cluster power from the ignition switch to makethe dash lights come on without using the headlight switch?
 
There is a tan wire off of the I terminal on the headlight switch that feeds the insturment lights. You can put 12v into that and have full intensity dash lights. But the switches cost just $15 new and you can replace it and have an operating dimmer. If replacing, there is a button on the underside of the switch that you press down and hold and then pull out the knob and shaft; sometimes they are a bit stubborn.

So, how about that fusible link? Any reason that there is not any juice at the bulkhead end of that link?
 
Update: fuseable link has juice, gremlin i guess. Put small washers on screws, all dash bulbs work when i run hot juice straight to tan wire. Dome light works with switch out and grounded, but the dash bulbs wont unless i run juice to he wire. Sounds like the headlight switch?
 
nashvegas99 said:
Update: fuseable link has juice, gremlin i guess. Put small washers on screws, all dash bulbs work when i run hot juice straight to tan wire. Dome light works with switch out and grounded, but the dash bulbs wont unless i run juice to he wire. Sounds like the headlight switch?
Click to expand...
Yes sounds like a bad switch.
 
Updated: the headlight switch was the answer for my dash lights. So now, all dash lights work, turn signal indicators work, high beam/low beam (didn't work before) work, dome light, cig lighter, heater fan, wipers....yayyyyy. I have everything working as it should now. EXCEPT for the stupid temp gauge. I'm about to just go buy an aftermarket elcheapo and put it in.
 
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