Sub-frame connectors... Please build them correctly!

wow what a poop storm this started. i modeled mine after the ones on big block darts website. 2x3 box steel .125" thick layed flat. slotted rear foot well. sure they dont attach to the floorpan except in the back footwell, but based on what most folks do it seemed like the way to go. $35 in materials also cant be beat either.

i also made and and installed front and rear torque boxes out of 1/8" steel plate like us car tool does. welded up and reinforced my K frame like firm feel does

still got to build a boxed lower radiator support, and stiffeners for the shock towers to firewall. i would have to agree with 72blunblu about the floor pan. its ridges, and such are there to make it a bit stronger than just flat sheet. will welding the connectors to the floorpan at the forward end where the trans crossmember is help stiffen up the car instead of fishplating them into just the crossmember?? Absolutely they will. But how much stronger is the question, and for how most folks on this forum use their vehicles is doing that extra work just overkill.

dont get me wrong i love the look of the US car tool subframe connectors, but at the time I installed mine I didn't have the money for them, nor did I have a body rotisserie at my disposal. for these two reasons I went with the 2 x 3 boxed steel. for what I intend to use the car for which is autocrossing and to have the handling improved with heavy duty sway bars torsion bars and polyurethane bushings, thats all that's needed.

you can over build to a point and I applaud you for that, but it's just not that necessary for what most of us use these cars for.

remember opinions are like buttholes everybody has one

and here is my .02
Matt