Scarebird Brakes
Has anyone redrilled scarebird rotors for sbp? Thinking about it someday, but want to keep Cragars.
I did my first set that way and then remembered that I'd have to drill each and every rotor after that. so I bit the bullet and just re drilled the stock 9" hubs for the 4.5 pattern. the rotors are now changeable on the side of the road if I have to. since they are factory 4.5 drilled. I like being able to go to the parts store for new stuff for my brakes:D
oh andI think I was wrong about the calipers being in front or rear. I think you just needed to flip the plates to work with the 10 inch spindles. It's been so long since I did them on the wife's car.
rotors are previa's
Calipers are celebrity.
here's a link for the listing that supports 9 & 10" spindles.
https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=139
here is my instructions I got. it's the undelined #4 section that tells you to flip the bracket for 9's or 10's
Mopar “A” body 1965-72 10”, 1960-72 9” Front Disc brake conversion instructions
Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support outer control arms with jackstands. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. Put a few drops of penetrant oil on brakeline nuts where they screw into rubber lines.
2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove studs. Best ways to do this is with a swedge cutter and press, or take a center punch the head from the inside. Then pilot drill about ½” deep, then drill off head with 5/8” diameter bit. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or beadblaster. Replace studs with ¼” longer or more studs, such as
NAPA #641-1563 (Dorman 610-156) (10”) or #
641-1560 (9”)
3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then removing clip. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well.
4. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nut welds facing inward for the Ten’s, outward for the Nines and caliper forward of the axle. Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate. Note placement of the bolts for the Ten’s: rearward bolt uses a supplied jam nut, while the forward bolt is reversed. A drop of Locktite is recommended on the jam nut.
5. Check rotor: should be 10” in diameter and 2” tall. Drill out wheel stud holes with pattern supplied. Cut out pattern with scissors, then spray with light oil or WD-40 and lay on rotor. Lightly punch for holes, then remove and punch harder. Drill out holes ½” diameter. Verify that rotor lays flat against hub by fitting rotor backwards onto hub. If the stud knurls interfere with rotor, countersink stud holes in rotor to clear knurls. Open pilot hole of rotor in lathe to just fit outside of centering ring.
6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap. Install center ring on hub.
7. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean.
8. Test fit caliper onto bracket. Note where casting lug interferes with spindle – remove this lug with hacksaw, cutoff wheel or grinder. If using the last two methods, make sure you do not heat up caliper too much and melt the seals. If fitting into stock drum rims, you will need to carefully grind and round off the outer edge of the calipers also. Lubricate caliper contact point of brackets. Slide assembly into caliper bracket. Make sure bleed screw faces upward- if not, reverse sides. We recommend buying semi-loaded calipers, and softest pads, like NAPA TruStop. Tighten caliper bolts to 35 foot-pounds. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance. Install hose with new copper crush washers.
9. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1973-75 Power Dart or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and manual flavors. Plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve in the line going to the rear cylinders, or use a disc proportioning valve
10. Bench bleed disc master cylinder. Mount MC on car, then gravity bleed entire system first to eliminate most of the air, then pump bleed and test, otherwise your distribution block may jam from a pressure imbalance.
Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard stops, a series of smooth stops will help bed in the pads properly.
