Timing for start up

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twayne24365

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Ok, so this is my second build and the first time i was so confused on getting everythig set correctly so it starts right up without cranking and cranking. So this is what i have always benn told, Put the engine at TDC #1 firing, set the distributor rotor so its pointing at #1 cylinder and put it in, then put the cap back on and make sure all plug wires are going to the correct cylinders. So thats what i did, is that all ican do or is there any other tips you guys have?
 
Advance it some otherwise it won't want to fire.

Once you get it fired, if cam break in is necessary, get the rpm up to 2K or so, then set timing at 35-38*. Low timing will make the headers/exhaust REAL hot.
 
Yep. Find TDC, then line up the marks and then put the damper at 10 degrees advanced and then line up the rotor in the distributor with the #1 terminal lined up with the rotor at 10° advanced. Fire it up and then make adustments.

If it backfires out the exhaust, it's too far advanced...
 
Yep. Find TDC, then line up the marks and then put the damper at 10 degrees advanced and then line up the rotor in the distributor with the #1 terminal lined up with the rotor at 10° advanced. Fire it up and then make adustments.

If it backfires out the exhaust, it's too far advanced...

to advance the timming are you pushing the vac advance towards the back of the car, or pulling it towards the front on bigblock?
 
big block rotors turn counter clockwise...

turn distributor clockwise......i hope...lol
 
to advance the timming are you pushing the vac advance towards the back of the car, or pulling it towards the front on bigblock?

To advance turn opposite direction of distributor rotation.

To retard, turn in same direction as rotor rotation.
 
If the fuel delivery system is stock and dry like new, it'll take a bit of cranking anyway.
Years ago I was told "just set the advance servo about square with the engine and it will run". Fine tuning is done later.
 
If the fuel delivery system is stock and dry like new, it'll take a bit of cranking anyway.
Years ago I was told "just set the advance servo about square with the engine and it will run". Fine tuning is done later.

an 18 time nhra national record holder, and the best chevy mech I know, told me to put them on 30 degrees before tdc, drop it in on # 1 and go for it. worked on them so far---------bob
 
thanks guys, my balancer is marked but ill run to the speed shop and grab some timing tape, just to make things a little easier
 
I hook up my timing light and crank with a starter button and set timing before it starts. Don't have to unhook vac advance couse there is no vacuum before it starts. Usually have to fill the carb with fuel and like oil pressure before it fires anyway. If electric fuel pump, don't turn it on. Big blocks call for 5` but I think you could start at 10`. BTDC Depends on the advance curve in your distributor. Then you just have to adj idle mixture and set idle after it starts and break your cam in. Then I check timing one more time when I am finished. Have had way better luck this way and they fire right up. Will also tell you right away if your ignition is working. Most engines do not start well at 30` unless you have a start retard in your ignition box.
 
Well got it broke in and it is stronggg, i found that at tdc firing the rotor pointed at #1 cylinder but with the cap on the rotor sat just past the #1 terminal, cranked it and it fired and shut off, advanced a little and same thing, so i pulled it out and put the balancer 10* btdc and put it back in, she fired right up, i learned that timing is a very finicky thing!, but thanks for all the input guys!
 
good to hear. i did the same with mine. i even drilled a hole in number one on an old dist cap to line up the rotor.
 
good to hear. i did the same with mine. i even drilled a hole in number one on an old dist cap to line up the rotor.


Deffinately a good tip, encountered one problem, rear main seal leak, called the shop that did the shortblock and all they said was "your on your own", the track wont stand for leaky oil so now i gotta fix that!
 
Deffinately a good tip, encountered one problem, rear main seal leak, called the shop that did the shortblock and all they said was "your on your own", the track wont stand for leaky oil so now i gotta fix that!

had the same problem with my last 440 build. pulled tranny and changed the rear main with engine in car.
 
Deffinately a good tip, encountered one problem, rear main seal leak, called the shop that did the shortblock and all they said was "your on your own", the track wont stand for leaky oil so now i gotta fix that!

Uh.......the shop that assembled the shortblock said you were on your own?

Did they not install the leaky seal? wow
 
Nope, when the shortblock came back from the shop it was complete, all i did was set up the heads, rockers intake and so forth
 
Yea the shop installed the rear main seal, but they said im on my own when i confronted them about the leaky seal, shouldnt hae leaked, everything was new, freshly machined block, new rotating assembly, it was the viton rear main seal
 
They must have installed it backwards or something. Have installed hundreds of those in new builds and never had one leak
 
Yea, im deff pissed, cuz now i gotta fi it and idk if i can get the pan off without lifting the motor atleast a few inches, but the cars in jacks now waiting for a new set of dr diff axles to arrive
 
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