Flat towing 65 Barracuda

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Be sure to put a couple wraps of tape around the U-joint to keep from losing the caps and needle bearings. :eek:ops:
 
I'm curious as to how this will work out. I don't plan on towing my car anywhere without a trailer but I'd like to know just in case.
 
I'm curious as to how this will work out. I don't plan on towing my car anywhere without a trailer but I'd like to know just in case.

I will give an update once I have everything situated. I would prefer a trailer but cash being what it is sometimes you have to do what you can. In truth I like the idea of this method best because it is easy to hookup and unhook to drive around.
 
I flat towed a 64 Dart over 2000 miles a few years ago. I bought a tow bar set up and magnetic lights ---- both are cheap and then you have them forever. I attached to the front bumper brackets by fabricating two pieces out of c channel. It towed fine. HOWEVER, the towed car had OLD tires and I lost several and had to change them. Invest in at least two spares in the small bolt circle size with good tires.

Yes --- ball and trunion trans. It is easy to remove on both ends as described above.
 
After flat towing 65 Coronet from Mississippi to Dallas I learned that the towed speed will need to be what both cars want, for mine it was 55 mph. You also have to turn like a 18 wheeler would as in wide turns. If you try it too tight you must turn the steering wheel in the towed car. A GOOD safety chain is needed also for piece of mine, as big as can fit the loops on the tow bar. I removed the front bumper to attach the tow bar to frame. I had also brought new tires for the towed car and checked the bearings before starting.
 
Do you all secure the steering wheel at all..ie...put a bungie cord on it..to give it some stability?
 
Do you all secure the steering wheel at all..ie...put a bungie cord on it..to give it some stability?


No, you have to let the steering wheel turn freely so it can follow along behind the tow vehicle.... :violent1:

If you lock it/tie it straight, then you will have trouble turning... :banghead:
 
If you don't use a bungie cord on the steering wheel, it will go to full lock when you turn, and it won't come back! Then you're dragging a flat spot in the towed vehicles front tires. Also, when the OP crawls under his car to remove the driveshaft, he will need to chock the wheels so the car doesn't roll away and mash him like a possum!
 
If you don't use a bungie cord on the steering wheel, it will go to full lock when you turn, and it won't come back! Then you're dragging a flat spot in the towed vehicles front tires. Also, when the OP crawls under his car to remove the driveshaft, he will need to chock the wheels so the car doesn't roll away and mash him like a possum!

Are you sure about the full lock I know on modern vehicles if you turn with the engine off it will lock but when I have turned the wheel in the barracuda and the engine is off it turns relatively easily left or right (power steering).

Good point on the wheel chock. I would not want to be road kill especially in Georgia someone might make me for dinner. lol
 
I have some experience. I towed my 69 Dart w/ a 1982 Aries once w/ no problem, but not ideal since the Dart was slightly heavier. I changed to a U-Haul tow dolly in AZ since the price dropped 1/2 from CA rentals and reversed the cars. To re-install the drive-shaft, I ran one side of the Dart up on a curb, giving room to climb under. On a 65, easier to leave the drive-shaft bolted to the tranny and chain the other end to the exhaust, as mentioned. Same U-joint at the rear as my 69.

I tried towing my 65 Dart to the DMV for inspection soon after getting it. In a test around the neighborhood, it wouldn't follow on turns. The wheels would **** far right or left and stay there, dragging on the street. Same thing when I tried to tow my 64 Valiant home after buying it. In both, the bushings were worn and clunky. I now have offset upper bushings in both to give more caster, which should help the front wheels follow. Haven't tried towing since. I didn't try a bungee cord to help return the steering to center. Seems it would help.

Re attaching the tow bar, in the Dart I used the factory brackets (Valley Ind.), bolting them under the bumper on the radiator support. The brackets disappeared when the car was stolen. I found that trailer spring shackles fit my tow bar perfectly (Harbor Freight or Northern). I have two on my 65 Newport all the time. Also on the radiator support, beside the strut rod attachments. You can barely see them under the bumper. Once the car failed on the way to work (freeze plug came out), so I called my wife to come w/ the tow bar, hooked up in 5 min and towed it home fine w/ our (lighter) 96 Voyager. Don't attach the tow brackets to the bumper brackets without the bumper. I tried that on the 64 Valiant and when the wheels cocked, the bumper bracket broke off (looks almost like cast iron). On cars that have a trailer light connector (flat 4-pin), I just jumper both car's connectors together to get lights on the towed vehicle, otherwise I use trunk-mount temp lights.

I had a rodder friend who was always hauling cars around with a tow bar, say 30's Fords w/ no engine. No issues and he once drove to work that way since he didn't care to unhook the towed car. Just tow smart and don't hit the brakes in the middle of turn, especially w/ sand on the road. Also, don't try backing up. The towed vehicles wheels follow only when going forward - caster, just like a shopping cart's wheels. You can back up very slowly if another person gets in the towed car and handles the steering wheel, and they are smart enough to follow instructions.

Timely question since I must soon get my 84 M-B from my son in San Diego and swap him the 85. The front wheels became toed-out and I don't know what failed in the steering/suspension. If I can fix it so the wheels are straight, I will tow-bar it back (V-6 minivan w/ factory tow package). If not, I will rent/buy a tow dolly. I found one no longer requires a license on a tow dolly in CA, both cars just need license tags (or perhaps a recent bill of sale).
 
For a 1965 Valiant (4 speed) I fabricated brackets for the tow bar that bolted to the holes in the frame for the bumper brackets (removed the front bumper of course). I had some tow hubs made from some old front spindles and never had to remove the driveshaft. In fact, with the tow hubs you would keep it in park. I put on some older tires and rims on the rear when towing because I would put the slicks on at the track. I believe you can purchase ready made tow hubs. I did not tie up the steering wheel, but once in a while driving around town in sharper turns the wheels would spin all the way either right or left and stay there. I would jump out and straighten the wheel by hand and then drive off. This only happened once in a great while and only while driving probably 5 mph or less. Of course, I used a safety chain and had a plug made from my wiring harness that I plugged into the tow vehicle so that the rear lights would function with the tow vehicle. It had a 70 challenger rear end, so the bolt pattern for the tow hubs was the more
current one. Anyway, with this option you always have a way to tow other mopars in the future.
 
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